How much should I pull?

[Wanderer]

I know that my van can pull 6200 lbs.

Trailer is 7' by 14' 1900 lbs. GVW 7K Surprisingly cheap at $3,995 (I'll have to finance....Oh well)

Obviously I'm NOT going to load it to it's limit. 

But then I look at it...Do I NEED this much space?

How do you approach that question? Yes, I am going to see it. Get a feel for the size. Still I have not used a trailer a lot....

Best way to train or get used to hauling that big of a trailer?

The van will be in the shop soon, Radiator replace, thermostat and power steering pump.

 

[Canine]

How I learned how much space was needed was I first made a cardboard "trailer" that fit in my front room. That was an eye opener. Then I got a free slide in camper and lived in that for a summer. I was comfortable with it. So I bought a 6 X 12 v nose trailer knowing it was going to be big enough.

 

[tx2sturgis]

Some manufactures also publish a maximum frontal area rating for vans pulling trailers, be sure to check that rating.

Also, beside tow-able weight, you should consider motor size, tongue weight, your connections for trailer, trailer brake controller, rear end ratio, extended overhang, if any, auxiliary transmission cooler, if any, tow/haul mode on the transmission, extendable tow mirrors, if any, receiver hitch, if any, etc. 

Lots to consider with a 7x14 tandem axle.

It's a lot simpler with a 6x12 single axle if your van doesn't meet most or all of the criteria.

 

[AMGS3]

tx2sturgis ^^^

You referred to extendable tow mirrors in the post above. I'm needing some of those myself. That was one of the things I realized I needed after the trailer was hooked up and ready to go for the ride across town. Needless to say I took the long way around instead of cutting corners and going thru town pulling a trailer I couldn't see clearly. Yikes! Do you (or anyone reading this, really) have any experience getting them installed?

What should I look out for? Is this something I can buy from RockAuto (or the like) and install myself? Do they come in different sizes, like so you can see around trailers of different sizes? Or are extendable mirrors a one-size-adjusts-to-fit-all sort of thing?

Peace,
Angie

Sent from my VS501 using Tapatalk

 

[ratfink56]

Angie, depending on your tow vehicle you may be able to get factory tow mirrors. if not, several companies make strap on or clamp on models. Google tow mirrors for your vehicle.

 

[Wanderer]

How I learned how much space was needed was I first made a cardboard "trailer" that fit in my front room. That was an eye opener. Then I got a free slide in camper and lived in that for a summer. I was comfortable with it. So I bought a 6 X 12 v nose trailer knowing it was going to be big enough.

Not possible as my front room is the front of my van   I have lived in a 12X12 shed for a couple years. Twin bed, wood stove and shower and 2 med-large dogs....Fun times..

Am looking at a 6X12  $3,279...But saw the 7X14 $3,995 That's why I was curious as to wanting to buy a good size, but not too big or too cramped.

 

[John61CT]

The extra foot of width let's you go sideways with the bed even if you're tall.

Will you need lots of insulation?

To me that's the big difference, a bit of extra length not so much.

Are you going boondocking off paved roads much?

 

[Wanderer]

The extra foot of width let's you go sideways with the bed even if you're tall.

Will you need lots of insulation?

To me that's the big difference, a bit of extra length not so much.

Are you going boondocking off paved roads much?

I'm not too sure if it's be bed or recliner. I spent 4 days at a motel (Heat was 105°) and it hurt a bit lying down due to bad hip. Now hip is replaced, so I feel better, but sure got used to the recliner...Would buy a nice plushie one next time. I'm 5' 10" atm btw

Well, I will be pulling the sides to check insulation amount and probably adding to it if I feel it's needed.

I'm not going off road at all. Van is not for that (Neither am I) and if I do, I want 4WD so that's in the future if desired.

A gravel road is OK as long as it's not up and down, twisty, turny type.  Light grades would be acceptable.

[font=Verdana, Arial, sans-serif]Posted by tx2sturgis - 
Some manufactures also publish a maximum frontal area rating for vans pulling trailers, be sure to check that rating.[/font]

I checked online. Cargo Mate/Forest River let me have a free owner manual to read...38 pages. I can see how serious this is to take, first 8 pages are devoted to tire safety. Nice pic of a heavily damaged tire...

I also found the specs for Dodge vans. Thanks for the info....

 

[tx2sturgis]

Yes, Angie, for most late model vans and trucks, you can buy either replacement tow mirrors or add-on mirror extensions. 

Pulling a 7 foot wide or 8 foot wide trailer is dangerous without adequate mirrors.

A 6 foot wide trailer being pulled with a full size van or pickup should be ok with the normal mirrors.

 

[Canine]

Having the extra width of a 7 foot wide trailer is awesome, but it also comes with 8 foot wide axles. Those suck. (Unless you get a deckover trailer or make a special order of building the trailer over the 7 foot wide axles.) I hate towing or driving things that are 8 feet wide. That is more difficult to maneuver and to park. I want to enjoy my driving; the smaller the vehicle, the more enjoyable/easier it is to drive. When I turn corners, I like to be able to stay in my lane. The larger the rig/trailer the more often I need to make my turns wide enough that I have to drive in another lane. Parking is more difficult as well. Most parking spaces aren't made for 8 foot wide vehicles.

Do you want the comfort of extra room in the trailer while sacrificing comfort while driving? Or do you want more comfort while driving while sacrificing precious interior space? Neither choice is wrong- it is what you prefer.

Same with axles. Single axles are easier overall to back up and drive with and they are cheaper to buy upfront and to maintain, but dual axles are easier to driver should it get a flat tire while doing 70 on the Interstate. Dual axles are a little easier to balance weight on as well to avoid fishtailing. Neither is wrong- it is what you prefer.

 

[John61CT]

Check out the outdoor style "zero gravity" loungers, come in an extra wide HD version, fold right up to put away.

For proper sleeping I need dead flat, but I find those dead comfy with a pillow, often doze off in summertime.

Cool weather maybe with a zipped rectangular sleeping bag.

 

[saytar]

I know that my van can pull 6200 lbs.

Trailer is 7' by 14' 1900 lbs. GVW 7K Surprisingly cheap at $3,995 (I'll have to finance....Oh well)

Obviously I'm NOT going to load it to it's limit. 

But then I look at it...Do I NEED this much space?

How do you approach that question? Yes, I am going to see it. Get a feel for the size. Still I have not used a trailer a lot....

Best way to train or get used to hauling that big of a trailer?

The van will be in the shop soon, Radiator replace, thermostat and power steering pump.

Been looking myself.....examined several and 6 wide is just not going to cut it, looked at the 7' trailers and their not too bad But looking at V nose 8.5 wide by 16 or 20 length is in my book a better fit all around (although not ruling out a 7 x 18). The 8.5 weigh in at around 26-2800 dry weight and I don't plan on massively building out the interior with massive amounts of heavy wooden cabinets or hauling much in the way of massive heavy items. My F-150 4x4 is rated at 6250 for trailer pulling and I don't see my planned setup grossing out at over 4000-5000 lbs which is par and below par for many regular RV's.

Now while I agree that the narrower trailers MIGHT be easier for some to pull & maneuver, I am a retired over the road driver and to me the 8.5 is just as easy if not easier for me (having pulled up to 96" X 57 ft trailers and doubles and triples) and using extended mirrors is more than second nature to me. In addition the extra 1.5 ft of extra width will allow me to stretch out a bit and be a bit less crowded than the narrower trailers are....especially as this unit will be by necessity my full time home 24/7/365. I don't plan on boon docking on extremely hostile roads (but DO plan on quite a bit of off grid) as the improvement in isolation or security is not that much better and pulling ANY trailer over extremely hostile and rough TRAILS (some call them roads) is not good on the chassis's or interior items, especially with trailers lacking an AIR ride set of axles.

I will eventually install a small shower stall and camping comode (or composting toilet), a solar setup (trailer will have roof mounted ladder racks to build solar on), very small counter with small sink, fridge and small 2 burner stove that will pretty much be it and much of the rest of storage will be done in plastic items as much as possible. 

Not sure if the estimate I have is in line with reasonable (I will be picking it up) but the trailer (8.5 x 20) with extra vent, roof top A/C with electrical package, 4 roof top ladder racks, 2-30 x 30 windows and an RV side door with window and screen door is coming in at around $7700.00 and change. To drop down to a 7 x 20 with all the same installed items would only shave around 800 bucks off the price and about 400 lbs off the dry weight. I DID NOT spec out insulation as the cost for the factory to do it would be costly and not put in the same thickness I'm going for.......they priced only 1/2" at 800+ bucks and for that and maaaybe a bit more or less I can do at least 2" in roof and and 1-1 1/2" in the walls.

Personally I am more comfortable with tandem axle trailers due to the fact that they tend to ride better, pull smoother and are no harder to maneuver than a single axle trailer. The difference in weight between the same length 7 ft and 8 ft trailer is only 15% or so and the pricing is usually not a very wide spread. Thus much of what size you get really depends on what your end game is with the trailer...........

As to the difficulty in pulling a 7 versus 8.5 trailer is minimal as when pulling ANY trailer you really NEED to extend your mirrors in some manner as you will soon find that your rear view mirror will be useless for much more than putting on makeup (Practice by flipping your rear view up and NOT using it, use ONLY your side mirrors). As to turning and maneuvering with most Cargo trailers the off tracking and extra turning swing required is a very minimal amount....especially compared to your axles being 40 ft back from your trailer pivot point (as in 53-57 foot trailers). The biggest problem newbie trailer pullers get into is backing out of places they shouldn't have pulled into in the first place!

 

[Doubleone]

Even though that's a pretty light trailer, I'd make sure you get electric brakes on at least one axle.  With a good proportional brake controller (I use Prodigey) it makes a big difference.  Safety wise, it helps keep the trailer from pushing the tow vehicle around.  Keeps you straight if you have to make a panic stop.

 

[wagoneer]

Get used to less is more smaller is better, it works for me, I can't recommend trailer brakes too much they will save your bacon.

 

[John61CT]

I can't imagine considering gross 4-5K# without solid brakes, in which states would they even register that?

I completely agree with "less is more" but it is also true if you're willing to keep to only well-maintained roads there is little benefit to going narrower given your OTR experience.

Just be aware the "narrow gets you further Out There" is not based so much on driver ability, but the physical difficulty of getting through the encroaching trees and shrubs.

Be prepared to carry a chainsaw, and to leave the trailer behind while you reconnoiter ahead. Opportunities to turn a big setup like that around Out There are often few and far between.

You may end up realizing the extra space inside is not worth the restrictions on where youcan set up camp.

 

[saytar]

I can't imagine considering gross 4-5K# without solid brakes, in which states would they even register that?

I completely agree with "less is more" but it is also true if you're willing to keep to only well-maintained roads there is little benefit to going narrower given your OTR experience.

Just be aware the "narrow gets you further Out There" is not based so much on driver ability, but the physical difficulty of getting through the encroaching trees and shrubs.

Be prepared to carry a chainsaw, and to leave the trailer behind while you reconnoiter ahead. Opportunities to turn a big setup like that around Out There are often few and far between.

You may end up realizing the extra space inside is not worth the restrictions on where youcan set up camp.

No way to pull this type trailer without brakes (which will come with electric). I would much prefer to have electric over hydraulic OR air over hydraulic, but most likely won't due to extra expense. Did some Hot Shotting some years back pulling a goose neck 32 ft trailer with electric brakes and never could get all four wheels electric's working at the same time. It had 2 x 5500 lb tandem axles (I have had over 18, 000 lbs on it) and it was ALWAY's in the shop for one wheel or another.....point is DO NOT depend totally on ELECTRIC brakes to be 100% dependable.....

As to further out......far enough is not having a dozen people set up 20 ft away from me, and am very familiar with chain saws but figure that "walking the trail" to verify the suitability of "going that way" will get me some good exercise and is a habit you quickly learn when pulling a set of doubles.............not doing so can result in breaking, turning each trailer around and "remaking" a doubles setup, not an enjoyable exercise and usually a waste of at least an hour...been there, done that, didn't enjoy it! I did back a 48 ft trailer over a mile out of a winding dirt road that went from 20 ft wide to barely 8 ft wide (pay attn to the directions someone gives you). It was not my most enjoyable experience......as far as well maintained roads as long as their are not deep wide washout's, Muddy (or likely to get muddy), or low hanging limbs (or large rocks) anywhere can be a road when needed.

My best advice on AVOIDING that situation is to NEVER go down ANY unknown road in the dark (or into an unknown shipper's location) and if considering it walking a mile or two with a very Bright flashlight is advised. The best method is plain don't do it ( an extra night at Walmart or a Truck Stop is warranted).................permanent camp can be set up the next morning after daylight.....

I was never a Marine but trucking made me appreciate their 6 P's .........Prior Planning Prevents Piss Poor Performance.......

But I appreciate the advice on the narrower trailer and at this planning stage I am not stuck on the width just yet, that IS one of my highest consideration's. I was mainly pointing out that regardless of the trailer width that proper visibility with extended mirror's of some type is in my opinion a given........as is practicing maneuvering and backing using JUST the side mirrors......backing a trailer requires a different thought process than going straight down the road or backing a standard vehicle...throwing an articulation point in compounds the process. Good backing skills are essential, sometimes it is better to BACK into a location than to count on turning around AT the location in order to leave..........it also opens up many more opportunities to enhance your privacy in a given location (and to get out in an emergency)........most people won't and that leaves open many more spots to camp alone or further away from the crowd...................

Love the comments and always open to suggestion's and things to improve my search and planning!