got to get ac in my van

Van Living Forum

Help Support Van Living Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
ColdBrook said:
If you ever do get it figured out please let me know how.  My biggest issue with getting a van is can I survive without ac at night.  I have asthma that is triggered when it's too hot and humid and at home I always have to run an ac in summer weather. I want to boondock a lot.

     If fixing your factory AC is out, I guess you need to figure out the output of your new alternator and determine if it will do the job then figure out batteries/inverter for AC while running.  As far as solar goes I am not going to attempt to run AC off solar.  I am looking at a Chevy Express cargo with 220 watt alternator and a spare battery set up.  The plan is to get an inverter and plug in an old window unit and see if it works while driving before I invest in the Safari Condo unit.  I get the medical aspect of it, my son has epilepsy and overheating is one of his triggers.  So when camping it will be a generator or shore power(we are not full timers yet).  I think if your going to attempt this sooner rather than later and will be staying in Florida finding/renting a parking spot where you have access to electric would be the easiest way.  Then if you think you want to go full time then reevaluate your vehicle and solar.
 
This won't be very useful to those who live in high humidity areas...  Works well for me in my low humidity location, 55 miles east of Death Valley... The 12" radiator fan draws 7 amps the bilge pump 1.5 amps.. 
Although the slider window cooler runs on 12volt, add a 110v> 12volt  power converter and run it off 110v , and save the batt.. I used a 5 gal bucket as a reservoir and a 12v bilge pump to recirculate the water over the pad... The water returns to the reservoir in a 1" ID hose.... The water feed, 3/8 hose, and power, go up through the 1 inch water return tube...
This proto-type was used for testing different type pads for air flow volume and temp data... Using PWM speed controllers, air flow and and water feed are controllable from 0-100% ... On a dry day it'll deliver air at 26-29*f below ambient air.. When I say dry I mean 2-8% humidity, with an average of 6% at days end.. 
Max air flow on this model was 8-10 cubic ft a second.... About 700 cubic feet a minute... Measured with a cheap anemometer at +/- 3.5%.. and depending on what pad was being tested... Even with the error factor, the temp. shift between conditioned air and ambient air should be close to accurate.. On the morning of 6-20-14 10:30am, ambient air 92*f humidity 13%, fan on low, air off the cooler 65*f...
The amp draw isn't an issue while driving... Engine off, it wouldn't be a good idea to run it for more than a hour or two, unless you've got a big battery..

New molds are in the works for a new model using an Endless Breeze 12 volt 3 speed fan.. 1.7 sq. ft. Celdek pad + bilge pump...   It's movable and has its own a stand and reservoir, and it's meant to be used while parked... About a 3 amp draw set to med. speed on the fan.... Think i'll use a PWM to drop the amp draw to 1 amp for the pump...
The first proto type was in fiberglass 20 years ago... It was such a slow a process,  i gave up on it...
A few years ago i discovered Vacuum Forming... That lead to designing and building a small 24' x24" vacuum former....Now I find turning my ideas into plastic a hell of a lot easier and faster than when i tried using fiberglass...
 

Attachments

  • cooler_028.jpg
    cooler_028.jpg
    163.2 KB · Views: 13
  • cooler_027 (1).jpg
    cooler_027 (1).jpg
    150.5 KB · Views: 15
  • IMG_238412.JPG
    IMG_238412.JPG
    160.1 KB · Views: 12
Dr Fish said:
This won't be very useful to those who live in high humidity areas...  Works well for me in my low humidity location, 55 miles east of Death Valley... The 12" radiator fan draws 7 amps the bilge pump 1.5 amps.. 
Although the slider window cooler runs on 12volt, add a 110v> 12volt  power converter and run it off 110v , and save the batt.. I used a 5 gal bucket as a reservoir and a 12v bilge pump to recirculate the water over the pad... The water returns to the reservoir in a 1" ID hose.... The water feed, 3/8 hose, and power, go up through the 1 inch water return tube...
This proto-type was used for testing different type pads for air flow volume and temp data... Using PWM speed controllers, air flow and and water feed are controllable from 0-100% ... On a dry day it'll deliver air at 26-29*f below ambient air.. When I say dry I mean 2-8% humidity, with an average of 6% at days end.. 
Max air flow on this model was 8-10 cubic ft a second.... About 700 cubic feet a minute... Measured with a cheap anemometer at +/- 3.5%.. and depending on what pad was being tested... Even with the error factor, the temp. shift between conditioned air and ambient air should be close to accurate.. On the morning of 6-20-14 10:30am, ambient air 92*f humidity 13%, fan on low, air off the cooler 65*f...
The amp draw isn't an issue while driving... Engine off, it wouldn't be a good idea to run it for more than a hour or two, unless you've got a big battery..

New molds are in the works for a new model using an Endless Breeze 12 volt 3 speed fan.. 1.7 sq. ft. Celdek pad + bilge pump...   It's movable and has its own a stand and reservoir, and it's meant to be used while parked... About a 3 amp draw set to med. speed on the fan.... Think i'll use a PWM to drop the amp draw to 1 amp for the pump...
The first proto type was in fiberglass 20 years ago... It was such a slow a process,  i gave up on it...
A few years ago i discovered Vacuum Forming... That lead to designing and building a small 24' x24" vacuum former....Now I find turning my ideas into plastic a hell of a lot easier and faster than when i tried using fiberglass...

what also might work is a room humidifier that uses a fan to evaporate instead of a heater. https://www.amazon.com/Honeywell-HC...F8&qid=1466098699&sr=8-48&keywords=humidifier
The filter it uses wicks up the water, (no water pump), You can run it off of an inverter, or swap out the fan with a 12v. 
Using their filters, https://www.amazon.com/Honeywell-HC...1_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=M1XWMF1CTA8K8A65YMJG   You may be able to rig something up of your own.


BTW Howdy neighbor, I am in Pahrump.
 
You really need a decent air flow it get top performance out of a swamp cooler.. The cooler on the truck will evaporate up a gal. an hour..... I'm moving up to 2" Celdek pads..... less resistance.. With my new shell design that clamps the pad in place, the Celdex pads are a better choice and under $9, about 1/2 the cost as the old ones.... They needed a 2 piece wire frame, and were more work to change....
Just started my 2 new molds, they'll take about a week to make, and then finish with a couple coats of high temp.  aluminum filled resin..
The Swampy cooler uses a type of absorption pad.... Don't feel they cool as well as a pad that the air passes through..
 
Regarding the alternator powering a large inverter hooked to starting battery, running a 500 watt AC window shaker, this is certainly possible, but there are considerations and asterixs involved.


Will the 500 watt AC be able to overcome florida heat and humidity when driving?  Are the door seals still good, how much insulation is there? 

The alternator would have a constant ~60 amp load on it when the AC compressor is running.  This is in addition to whatever the vehicle needs to run the ignition, fuel pump, blower motor, lights.  My 89 requires 8.2 amps just to run the engine without lights or blower motor or stereo on.  Blower motor can be as much as 18 amps on high and the headlights are about 15 to 16 amps on low beam and another 2 on high beam.

At rpms below 1100, the alternator might not be able to make enough juice.  If it can it will be fully fielded, generating lots of heat, and this slower fan speed as well as likely lower underhood air movement can cause alternator temperatures to skyrocket.

When the Voltage regulator, internal to the engine computer on Dodge vans post 1988/89 is struggling to maintain system voltage at lower rpms under high loads, maximum field current flows through voltage regulator, producing much heat inside engine computer too.  A replacement engine computer is about 300$.  the VR internal to engine computer can be bypassed.  I have done so on my 89 dodge with 130 amp alternator.

I have some uncollated data points on the alternator temperature, voltage regulator temperature and battery temperature at different loads,.  Basically the most noticable thing is that each time the alternator is loaded hard, and the vehicle is moving slow or idling both the VR temperature and the alternator temperature skyrocket and the amps it can produce diminishes at the same time and the battery starts making up for what the alternator can no longer produce.  Highway speeds and rpms the alternator and VR temperatures lower to safe unconcerning levels but as soon as I get off the freeway temperatures skyrocket and amperage plummets and battery voltage falls and falls the longer I have to idle or move slowly.

Even when slowing from 40 to 15mph, the temperature of both VR and alternator starts climbing fast.  Much much faster than I had anticipated.

So this constant ~60 amps load of an AC could easily fry an alternator, especially in Florida when not driving at 45+ MPH.

Also the Alternator cabling would need to be thickened, and the inverter cabling fat, and the battery would still be providing the inverter at lower engine speeds.

I hear on the magnum engines replacing the alternator  requires removing the AC compressor so swapping out alternators is not a 15 minute process like on my 89 LA 318 mopar.

The AC riddle has some answers and solutions, but many problems.  

If I ever put in a window shaker, I'd only use it when plugged into the gridnever driving, never with engine off for that matter, and My charging system is highly refined/upgraded.

Also note an alternators AMP rating is the maximum it can ever produce, in ideal conditions, and only briefly.

Ideal for an alternator is spinning fast when cold with thick short cabling to the load.  This Never happens in an engine compartment unless you start it overnight cold and hold engine rpm at 4K in neutral or park. It is highly unlikely the alternator will EVER deliver its maximum rating otherwise.  At best the higher the number the better it can dissipate the tremendous heat it can generate when working hard.  there are many lower rated alternators which actually perform better at lower rpms than their higher rated counterparts at lower rpm.

So do not put too much confidence in your "136 amp" rated alternator. You do not have a 70+ amp safety buffer.

 If it had Ideal conditions in which it had to deliver 136 amps continuously, it would burn up in 20 minutes.

Even if asked to deliver half of its rating continuously its temperature would hover in the 155 to 220F range depending on underhood airflow and 220F is kind of the tipping point at which alternators start to quickly self destruct.

IF one really wants to reliably power a window shaker AC long term, without issue, via an inverter while driving, I'd recommend a second alternator with a dedicated cold air intake and or or perhaps a high powered ducted fan forcing cooler ambient temperature air at the alternator.  You have those kind of DIY skills?

If the vehicle speeds average in the 15 to 30 MPH range when running this AC, it is likely the battery will be making up for what the alternator cannot provide, and the battery will require replacement much sooner, unless the owner plugs in to recharge fully overnight each time.  And even then a battery only has so many cycles, and the dreaded starter click will occur more often and at worse times.  So carry a jumper pack or at least high quality long and convenient jumper cables as it is highly likely you will get a lot of practice using them.

Also keep in mind most mechanics have little to no idea about proper battery charging, They only see the 136 amp rating do some math and say it will work, when it likely will only work briefly, when the battery is still healthy and the alternator not had a chance to really fry itself, and when it does likely inevitably fry itself....well job security for them.

I imagine I will live in Florida at some point.  I am not looking forward to trying to do so in a Van, unless I can plug in overnight with a 500+ btu window shaker and more added insulation, and I would make dang sure my vehicles belt driven compressor AC was restored and working as efficiently as possible.

No way would I attempt the window shaker on an inverter when driving.  I doubt it would actually be very effective on a hot day going down the road at cooling my interior as is.

In San Diego right now it is 85f+ and likely mid80% humidities.  i am chilling in my van doors and windowes closed, reflextix shades in all windows, in direct sun with 3 intake computer fans blowing inward through a conversion van sliding window, 2 120Mm counter rotating computer fans exhausting the roof and one powerful 92MM fan directed at my chest at about 3/4 maximum speed.

And of course at my right elbow is a 12v compressor fridge filled with 32.5 degree cheap american swill canned beer and some Dos Equis bottled lager.

CK Fweeeep  gurgle gurgle gurgle.

 Ahhhhhhhhh.
 
I installed a large inverter, a 45 amp smart charger fed by a 800 Watt generator to run a 5,000 BTU A/C unit. The system didn't make the cut. The inverter shows the A/C uses 555 watts while running, (which is less than the generator is capable of), but where the system fails is the battery charger tries to put back the charge in the battery at full clip. The charger is rated at something like 725 watts draw. The generator says it is 800 Watts, but it will only do 700 on a constant basis. Generator dies. My choice was to put in a smaller charger, say a 30 amp, or get a larger generator. I ordered a larger generator. With a 30 amp charger the drain out of the battery would be at least 16 amps. Too much to last very long.
Had the generator put out a solid 800 watts, it would have worked.
 
The A/C uses 555 watts running, ( 46.25 amps), but a lot more to start it running. If powered by a vehicle alternator/ inverter, I think a dedicated 60 amp circuit would be needed.
 
gsfish said:
If you are running the generator to charge the battery to power the inverter to run the AC...... what purpose does the charger, inverter and battery provide? Just run the AC off the generator and be done.

Guy

The smaller generator on it's own does not put out enough amperage to start the air conditioner. The inverter is a 3,500 watt unit, so it does not have a problem with the starting current.  Most things with a heavy load do not run constantly. Air conditioner compressors, refrigerators etc come on and off. So my idea was to use a small generator and charger to recharge the battery when these things cycled off. When they came back on, the battery and inverter would handle the initial load. The battery and inverter would act like a shock absorber for the moments of heavy loads. If I wasn't running a heavy load, I would not need to run the generator but maybe once a day, maybe less. (the house battery also charges from the truck if I go somewhere). I may also go with solar panels to handle light loads. 

The generator is an inverter type, so once the heavy load shut down and the battery was full, it would idle down. These small generators can run all day on less than a gallon of gas. Some days it is worth $3 to stay cool all day. If I were to get a generator that could handle an air conditioner all on it's own, we are looking at burning twice the gasoline, (with a lot more noise). It would have to be at least a 1,500 watt generator, and I don't know if any idle down feature would react quick enough for an A/C unit compressor start. So I might have to run it on high speed constantly. 

If my present 800 watt generator really did put out 800 watts continuous, the system would work. It puts out 700 watts continuous, (and only 800 for a very short time). The charger pulls a little more than the 700 watts, so to protect itself, the generator shuts down. I could probably use a 40 amp charger and it might work. 40 amps at 12 volts is 480 Watts. The running A/C uses 555, so with the a/c running,  75 watts, (6.25 amps),  would be coming out of the battery. A single battery might not be able to handle this for too long. 

Because it is such a balancing act,( air conditioner usage, battery charger input and output, generator output), I decided to go with a generator rated at 1,200 watts peak, and a constant 1,000 watts, ( this also would also be too small to run an air conditioner on it's own). Later if I decided that I needed a 55 or 60 amp battery charger, it should handle that as well. Because it is an inverter type generator, and does not drive the A/C unit directly, an idle down feature can be used.

So in brief, I am trying to run heavy loads with a generator that would normally be way too small. The low fuel usage is a plus, but the lower noise from these small generators is what I was really after. The size of the generator is calculated by the average amount of power the load uses during the day, (including the time it is shut off). Because all the 120volt loads come off of the inverter, I don't need to flip switches if I don't really need the generator. It is all kind of automatic. Should I run the battery low, the generator can bring it back up in short order.
 
DannyB1954 said:
The smaller generator on it's own does not put out enough amperage to start the air conditioner. The inverter is a 3,500 watt unit, so it does not have a problem with the starting current.  Most things with a heavy load do not run constantly. Air conditioner compressors, refrigerators etc come on and off. So my idea was to use a small generator and charger to recharge the battery when these things cycled off. When they came back on, the battery and inverter would handle the initial load. The battery and inverter would act like a shock absorber for the moments of heavy loads. If I wasn't running a heavy load, I would not need to run the generator but maybe once a day, maybe less. (the house battery also charges from the truck if I go somewhere). I may also go with solar panels to handle light loads. 

The generator is an inverter type, so once the heavy load shut down and the battery was full, it would idle down. These small generators can run all day on less than a gallon of gas. Some days it is worth $3 to stay cool all day. If I were to get a generator that could handle an air conditioner all on it's own, we are looking at burning twice the gasoline, (with a lot more noise). It would have to be at least a 1,500 watt generator, and I don't know if any idle down feature would react quick enough for an A/C unit compressor start. So I might have to run it on high speed constantly. 

If my present 800 watt generator really did put out 800 watts continuous, the system would work. It puts out 700 watts continuous, (and only 800 for a very short time). The charger pulls a little more than the 700 watts, so to protect itself, the generator shuts down. I could probably use a 40 amp charger and it might work. 40 amps at 12 volts is 480 Watts. The running A/C uses 555, so with the a/c running,  75 watts, (6.25 amps),  would be coming out of the battery. A single battery might not be able to handle this for too long. 

Because it is such a balancing act,( air conditioner usage, battery charger input and output, generator output), I decided to go with a generator rated at 1,200 watts peak, and a constant 1,000 watts, ( this also would also be too small to run an air conditioner on it's own). Later if I decided that I needed a 55 or 60 amp battery charger, it should handle that as well. Because it is an inverter type generator, and does not drive the A/C unit directly, an idle down feature can be used.

So in brief, I am trying to run heavy loads with a generator that would normally be way too small. The low fuel usage is a plus, but the lower noise from these small generators is what I was really after. The size of the generator is calculated by the average amount of power the load uses during the day, (including the time it is shut off). Because all the 120volt loads come off of the inverter, I don't need to flip switches if I don't really need the generator. It is all kind of automatic. Should I run the battery low, the generator can bring it back up in short order.

Interesting approach.  perhaps A more efficient power factor corrected charger/ power supply would allow your smaller generator to work.

Most chargers that are not power factor corrected are upto 83% efficient.  My Meanwell RSP-500-15 is power factor corrected and can achieve efficiencies upto 93%.  Adjustable output voltage makes sure the battery can have its sweet spot absorption voltage massaged as well.

I really dislike any 3 or 4 stage charger that presumes to know what the battery needs better than I do.  they are easily confused by loads or other charging sources and can seek only float voltage when hours at absorption voltage are still required.

Far too many people assume a charging source dropping to float voltage indicates a fully charged battery.  This is completely wrong 95% of the time, but especially on a daily deeply cycled battery.  Absorption voltage is almost never held long enough by automatic charging sources and the result is a prematurely sulfated battery and premature capacity loss.  It is basically impossible to charge a lead acid battery from 80% to 100% in less than 3 hours, so any claims of quickly recharging a battery depleted below 80%  to full, are completely delusional.

Proper tools will prove this time and again, but so many people put their trust in blinking green lights on automatic charging sources it is practically criminal.
 
I believe that you can put energy back into a battery about as fast as you took it out. If you let it sit with a partial charge for a period of time chemical changes take place that require longer charging periods. In my set up with a 45 amp charger, very little comes out of the battery during air conditioner usage, (the 1/2 second starting current). The A/C = 555 watts, 45 amp charger is rated at 45x 13.6 volts or 612 watts. So if the a/c runs for an hour before it cycles off, very little if any energy will be removed from the battery. If the a/c stays off for 20 minutes, there is plenty of time to bring the battery back up.
I am using the Progressive Dynamics (PD9245CV) 45 Amp Power Converter with Charge Wizard. According to their site, All 9200 Series Converter/Chargers are equipped with the TCMS / Charge Wizard built in. The Charge Wizard senses that your batteries are low and that you want to charge them fast therefore, it automatically increases the output voltage of the Converter/Charger to 14.4-volts and will return a 125-AH battery to 90% of full charge in 2-3 hours. Full charge is achieved in approximately 15 hours.
I can live with a 90% charged battery. Between driving the truck, using the generator, and maybe a solar cell or two, I will be just fine I think. I just need a generator that will not shut down when it gets a 725 watt load put on it. http://www.progressivedyn.com/rv_converter_pd9145a_2.html
 
jimindenver said:
The 3 Lifeline 8-D's should run the A/C around 9 hours IF the compressor ran continuous but would need the power replaced very quickly.

The three 250w panels are 39x64 each and will cover a fair amount of roof once they let me play with my toys again. You could try and find some 400+ watt panels, they are a foot longer and it would take two. You are going to need a costly charge controller for the panels and a inverter to create the 120v. We use A morningstar TS-MPPT-60 and a Tripp lite 1250fc industrial inverter.

Yikes, that's like 6-8 car sized batteries, lots of extra weight, and a few thousand $$$ in batteries, parts and solar panels to run a $150 window A/C unit.
 
@ DannyB1954
Interesting post ,, so what generator did you end up using?
 
GrayWhale said:
Yikes, that's like 6-8 car sized batteries, lots of extra weight, and a few thousand $$$ in batteries, parts and solar panels to run a $150 window A/C unit.

While I designed the system to be able to run the little A/C, that amount of power does quite a bit more for us. It lets us use as little propane as possible when we use electric to make coffee, cook on a electric cook top, heat the bathroom and water for smaller jobs too. That's on top of running the trailer, furnace, and all of the devices. All the comforts of home thanks to ebay and craigslist, I couldn't have done it otherwise.
 
Dr Fish

That looks nice, it would at least give a cool breeze in the trailer. I thought of fitting a small swamp cooler to the trailer, it would be easier to run. I went with A/C because the solar provides the power and we only have 60 gallons of water for two weeks.
 
I'm in the same situation .
My van Ac is going to cost more than I want to pay to get It fixed.
I figured I drive about 660 miles a month so I think I drive about 17.322 hours a month 
I can run my Honda generator for 17.3228 hours for probably less then $5.40 in gas  a month .
I already have the generator I might just put a portable ac In my cab and vent the hose.
 
Mobilesport said:
@ DannyB1954
Interesting post ,, so what generator did you end up using?

I created a hybrid system. I have a 1,200 watt inverter type generator that powers a 45 amp battery charger, (A generator that puts out 900 Watts continuous should also do). There is a single battery that feeds a 3.5K inverter, (this inverter really is overkill, but I got a good deal on it). I also have a heavy cross connect Via a relay to the vehicle battery when the vehicle is running. 
The advantage to this system is if I don't need a lot of electricity, I don't need to run the generator. If I go into town the vehicle alternator helps charge the battery. If I am running the A/C, When the compressor starts the heavy current necessary comes out of the battery, so the generator can be smaller. When the A/C cycles off, the generator brings the battery back up. When that is happy, the generator reduces its speed, (because it is an inverter type). 

My original generator was a little too small. It was an 800 watt model but in reality it only would output 700 watts continuous. The charger would require 725 watts when the A/C kicked in, so the generator would shut down. I decided to go with a larger generator than necessary just to give me a margin of error, and if I ever wanted to change out the charger for a 60 amp model it should handle it. 

I also have an old loud 1,500 watt generator that will run a 5,000 BTU window A/C without a battery and inverter if you want to go that route. Champion seems to be a good unit for under $200,  https://www.amazon.com/Champion-Pow...&sr=8-1&keywords=champion+1500+watt+generator   You will need to research if this is large enough for your particuliar A/C unit. 

I was setting up my flatbed pickup for a camper and now have switched things up and bought a van. So I will be transferring or duplicating the system to that. I will most likely have the generator on a reciever hitch storage unit. These small generators can run most of the day on a gallon of gasoline. The sound levels of the less expensive ones will be something you will have to deal with, (soundproof ventilated box).
 

Attachments

  • Camp Wires.jpg
    Camp Wires.jpg
    164.2 KB · Views: 8
@DannyB
What brand was the 800 watt model generator?
[font=Verdana, Arial, sans-serif]When the A/C cycles off, how does t[/font][font=Verdana, Arial, sans-serif]he generator turn itself back on to [/font][font=Verdana, Arial, sans-serif]bring[/font][font=Verdana, Arial, sans-serif] the battery back up , or do you just leave it running but idled slower.?[/font]
[font=Verdana, Arial, sans-serif]How long have you been using this hybrid system?[/font]
[font=Verdana, Arial, sans-serif]Thanks[/font]
 
@ Danny B
So I take it your battery is not used to power the air conditioner except for helping it during the startup surge voltage? Correct?
 
Mobilesport said:
@ Danny B
So I take it your battery is not used to power the air conditioner except for helping it during the startup surge voltage? Correct?

The 800 watt generator  I have is branded Earthquake. It is a Chinese model that got good reviews from many.   https://www.amazon.com/Earthquake-1...qid=1468792328&sr=8-3&keywords=800w+generator I really like this unit, but it was just a hair too weak to run a 45 amp battery charger. 

The Generac 800/850, https://www.amazon.com/Generac-5791...efinements=p_n_feature_browse-bin:13883099011 may be a perfect match for my inverter system, but it has a small fuel tank, and I did not want to take a $300 gamble.

The 1200 watt generator,  appears to be made by the same company as the 800 Earthquake, but it is branded through Home Depot as a dirtyhands generator http://www.homedepot.com/p/Dirty-Ha...d-Digital-Inverter-Generator-104610/206958273

The 1,500 watt generator is marked Kawasaki. it is a very similar design to the Campion https://www.amazon.com/Champion-Pow...efinements=p_n_feature_browse-bin:13883100011

I just tried the 1200 gen on the 5,000 BTU Gold Star A/C. It will carry it if I turn the economy mode off, (RPM does not lower). With economy on it stalls when the compressor comes on. Being 103 here today may affect that. 

My reasoning behind running everything 120 volt off of the inverter was that the battery and inverter would handle any heavy momentary load, and the small generator would eventually catch up. I could even start the vehicle engine if I wanted to run something heavy like a microwave. I wanted to be able to run anything on the smallest quietest generator possible.

I have not run it very long. I was building the system for a camper that I have yet to make. Then to complicate things I got a van. So now I may transfer the system over to it. The van has tranny problems, so I will be rebuilding it first.
 

Latest posts

Top