Fuse location for + wire coming off house battery

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user 423

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Shouldn't the fuse be located at the battery for the large wire coming off the battery + that feeds a DC-DC charger or solenoid?

(I'm getting ready to install a DC-DC and saw this pic on the Pirate Aid thread and wondered):

Positive.jpg
 
Possible there is a fusible link somewhere, looks like cable, but designed to fail if shorted.

Or you have something that you might want to address.
 
Generally fuses are located nearest the source of power in Direct Current circuits. Many times a fusible link is used directly off the battery, starter solenoid or alternator which can all be used as good take off points for DC power. Because of the likelihood of corrosion at the battery terminal many prefer to mount a terminal/fuse block nearby and run fused circuits off of it rather than multiple circuits on the battery terminal. A military terminal as shown in the picture is my preference for adding a high current circuit such as a terminal/fuse block or fusible link.
 
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^The mil. terminals are nifty but the OEM battery terminals & cables on this van are still in great shape which is unusual for a 30yo vehicle. I think I'd like to leave them intact. I've been searching for something that would fit under the + clamp with a terminal sticking out so a fuse holder and aux. wire can be connected.

The ground cable has a #8 or so wire that connects to the sheet metal (red arrow) and I was thinking of putting a heftier wire there to bolt to a really good grd. spot on the sheet metal and then not using a separate ground wire to the DC-DC charger.


DSC08180.JPG

PS: I thought of coming off of the +pos. lug on the alternator,too but that area gets pretty hot and is also hard to get to.
 
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If you are good with and want to keep the existing cables I would clean them up and replace the clamping bolt and nut in them with a longer bolt and use that to attach an additional ground and positive lead. Not as good as properly installed lug eye ends on your existing cables and military battery terminals but it will do.
 
If you are good with and want to keep the existing cables I would clean them up and replace the clamping bolt and nut in them with a longer bolt and use that to attach an additional ground and positive lead.
That's what I'll do. Your thoughts on using chassis ground instead of a separate wire to the charger?
 
Well I was trained as a German car and truck mechanic back when they ran a ground wire to every component for reliability. Yes I use frame grounding points but I still don’t consider it a reliable circuit unless every component has a power and a ground wire. Too many problems from bad grounds with the amount of plastic, rubber mounts, thin metal and protective coatings as well as loose connections. I had to jump a brand new Ford F-350 Diesel yesterday that had the keys inside with a shorted trailer plug that had run both batteries completely dead while parked with the keys inside and electric door locks locked. The owner had tried to use his jumper cables to back feed the power wire from the trailer to get enough power to open the doors so he could open the hood to jump the batteries unsuccessfully because they were so light gauge. I got mine and attached the positive cable to the starter solenoid and had him attach the negative to the frame still no connection. We had to find the ground bolt from the engine to the frame cable in order to get a good connection as apparently the frame is coated with a nonconducting material. Seems the more problems get fixed, the more problems the fixes create. I can easily fix and troubleshoot a two wire system not as easy for me with other systems so I guess I’m a little prejudiced.
 
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HEY THAT'S MY PIC

The inline 50 amp ANL fuse is located inside the cabin........about two feet from that vehicle battery

That DCDC feed cable is way oversized........She had the #4 wire already
 
^Ok thanks! Do you remember where you drilled the hole in the firewall?
I have an E150 also and trying to find a good spot.
 
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HOLE ?

Just forward of the doghouse..........thru the Firewall.............(Next to-just above the exhaust manifold)

I inserted a rubber grommet and later caulked

We found an easy to access IGN+ connection in the driver side engine compartment electric panel
 
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