Fix Holes in Floor - How To

[JeffJones]

Hi,
I have a 2004 Ford E250 that was a Wheel Chair Lift van. I took all that out but now I have a couple dozen holes from 1/8" to 1 1/2". 

I am looking for suggestions on best ways to fix/plug/cover these holes. (I am not a welder nor have access to the equipment.) I did a temporary fix with Gorilla duct tape to keep the water out.

Thanks
Jeff

 

[highdesertranger]

hi Jeff, I feel the best method is to glue patch panels over the bigger holes and just use the adhesive to plug the smaller holes. there are many, many types of adhesive you could use, by far the best are the type that the body shops use. highdesertranger

 

[B and C]

You may be able to find rubber plugs like the factory puts into unused holes at the auto parts store. These would be a simple push in. If you can't find the right size of plugs, HDR's advice should be followed.

 

[MrNoodly]

We needed to plug a bunch of 1/4" and 1/2" holes in the floor of a friend's van. All the plugs and caps and such were stupidly expensive, so I got a bunch of coins from my change jar and glued them over the holes with construction adhesive. Only five to twenty-five cents each instead of $1.25.

 

[Reducto]

I went with coins as well, though I prefer using Goop or E-6000 glue because it is very stable but can be removed cleanly later on if you need to.

For holes larger than a coin take a look in the hardware store where they have electrical conduit and outdoor fixtures. There you'll find various sizes and shapes of metal panels that won't rust.

 

[Gr8ful]

Sashco makes a clear dealant caled "through the roof" I always keep a couple tubes around as it stick ro shingles glass steel aluminum anything. I'd use a wire brush on a drill to clean the dirt & rust top & bottom & put duct tape under the holes so you don't waste it, fill the holes & when dry you'll be set.

 

[maki2]

I had a neighbor who was fixing up an old rust bucket for someone. He used fiberglass cloth and resin. It works just fine for the job. Be sure you clean any rust loose paint etc before you patch the holes. You can put tape on the underside to hold in the resin while you do the upper side. The remove the tape and put cloth and resin onto that surface.

Por 15 which is a rust treating and preventative coating is also a resin substitute for fiberglass repairs such as filling your holes. The Por 15 website has instructions for it. Here is an article showing repairing the rusted out floor pan in an old vehicle.
https://www.por15.com/Floor-Pan-Repair_ep_77.html

 

[Homeless in Canada]

Buy a 110 volt mig welder.

 

[Groovy2]

Bondo

 

[highdesertranger]

the problem with welding is it burns off all the protective coatings on both sides then you must redo it all. the rusting starts almost immediately.

Bondo will work on the small holes if done correctly. if done incorrectly it will just fall out.

highdesertranger

 

[JD GUMBEE]

Clean the holes so there's no dirt/oil on them.
Make a mushroom push out the top from the bottom if possible.
Once you seal the metal with this, it CANNOT rust, since oxygen is blocked from reaching it.
You don't want to use Bondo.
Bondo always ends up rusting after a while.

Fiberglass Polyester mat/cloth/resin is great, but you need super clean/roughed up metal for it to stick properly.
A wire brush to get rid of loose paint is all you need for Marine Tex.
Boat shops...Amazon...best stuff in the world for metal patching. I've glued engine blocks together with it on tractors, outboards...a Chevette back in 79 with cracked freeze plug valley...amazing stuff.

 

[Homeless in Canada]

the problem with welding is it burns off all the protective coatings on both sides then you must redo it all.  the rusting starts almost immediately.

Bondo will work on the small holes if done correctly.  if done incorrectly it will just fall out.

highdesertranger

Protective coating? You mean paint?

 

[highdesertranger]

paint on the top side and paint and or undercoating on the bottom side. the bottom side is the pain in the ass side because anything you do you are laying on your back. highdesertranger

 

[JeffJones]

I think I may use JB Weld stick for most of them and maybe some Eternabond tape areas that won't have plywood on it, the lower grooves of the channels on the floor.
I used as a temporary Gorilla waterproof duct tape and it has held up extremely well even in the heavy rain I was driving in this week. I could also just stay with that, not sure how long of life it will give me.

Still open for suggestions or comments!

Thoughts on the Gorilla tape lasting?

 

[JeffJones]

I just read another thread about kinda the same subject. I am not going to keep the Gorilla tape nor use Eternabond tape. JB Weld for the tiny holes, sheet metal patches for the larger holes. I still need to grind out the light rust patches as well. Then I will use por15?? Then use a sealer over the entire floor before the plywood.
I need to spend the money to do it right, it was a nightmare when I pulled up the old floor and never want that again!

 

[Homeless in Canada]

I just read another thread about kinda the same subject. I am not going to keep the Gorilla tape nor use Eternabond tape. JB Weld for the tiny holes, sheet metal patches for the larger holes. I still need to grind out the light rust patches as well. Then I will use por15?? Then use a sealer over the entire floor before the plywood.
I need to spend the money to do it right, it was a nightmare when I pulled up the old floor and never want that again!

POR is pretty good. Grind off the surface rust with a wire brush wheel and scuff up the surrounding paint so there's a rough surface for the POR to grab onto.

Only way you can mess up with POR is if the work area isn't completely dry. So start by pressure washing everything to get out all the mud and dirt that might be holding any moisture. Then take a day to grind. It helps to have a good dust mask and something over your eyes. Then blow all the dust out with an air compressor so it's good and clean and let it dry for a day or two.

 

[Reducto]

I still think Goop is ideal here. You don't need strength, just good coverage and long term stability. The ability to remove later is a nice bonus in case you decide to reuse the holes or weld them shut.