Favorite Class Cs from the 80s and 90s

[wolfmother09]

Hey everyone! Brand new here, so thanks for bearing with another "what should I buy?" post. I am about to finish nursing school with the intention of becoming a travel nurse in 2 years. After doing a lot of research, I've determined that the best way for me to do this would be to live in an RV during my assignments and travel time in between. I think 2 years should be enough time for me to choose an older Class C and get it ready for full-time living, but I was wondering if you guys had any brands/models you recommended in particular. I'd like to pay $10,000 or less (possibly $12k to $15k for something truly amazing), which is why I've mainly been looking at RVs from the 80s and 90s. 

Here are my considerations:

• Size: Since I will be traveling in the countryside and also going into cities to visit friends between assignments, I'd like a smaller class C (like 21') that could fit into standard parking spaces.
• Engine/power: I'll admit I don't really know that much about engines, but from what I've read it seems like 4-cylinder engines on these old RVs are not really strong enough for climbing steep inclines. I will definitely be driving it through mountainous areas of Colorado to visit my sister and so I guess I need a model with a decently powerful engine. 
• Pets: I'll have my dog with me!
• Durability: What materials are used for the most durable RV bodies? I've read a fair amount, and most people seem to think fiberglass is the best option. Since I have 2 years to potentially gut and redo the interior, at this point the most important thing for me is the build quality of the exterior. Are there any older class C brands particular known for their build quality/durability? I've seen several people mention Lazy Daze, but are there old Lazy Daze models smaller than 24'? 
• Chassis: Toyota? Ford? What do you recommend?
• Me: I am not the most mechanically inclined, and while I plan on learning as much as I can about basic car repair over the next 2 years, I am nervous about taking on an overly complicated system. This, I guess, would be the downside of a V6 or other high-power engine. Is it worth the headache? 

From reading many of the posts on these forums, I definitely understand that I should look at any RV on a case-by-case basis, and that the most important factor is how well the previous owner took care of it. Still, if any of y'all have advice I will gladly take it! Thank you!

 

[Smitty716]

Check your local rv dealers , I know mine have some 2004 and 2005 models for 15k and some older cheaper. Class c cost more the Class a you may look at some short class a’s I seen some 28ft class A’s real reasonably priced. Rvtrader is agood place to look also , you can filter the area to be within so many miles of you.

 

[Smitty716]

Most Class C’s have V8 engines , if you get one earlier then 87 they won’t have fuel injection so will be worse on gas mileage. With a Dog I wouldn’t get a small Toyota. I would get a regular sized Class C . You will be parked mostly so make sure the living arrangements suit your needs, bed big enough , comfortable, TV, microwave, etc. since you will have Full hookups most the time you won’t need a big water tank or any of that . So I wouldn’t worry about size of tanks. Unless you plan on boondocking, camping without hookups, then you might want to check tank sizes. You should be able to find one 2000 year model or newer in your price range with no problem. Don’t get suckered into financing one for 20 years, there going to try and upsell you something or they will offer 10 year financing on a 15k dollar loan. Don’t fall for it have your budget figured out, if you can afford 450 a month finance it for 3 or 4 years and pay that thing off early if you can

 

[Weight]

My favorite is RoadTrek. That is a class b. The size of a large van. easier to park in town than a class c. If your plans include campground stay, be aware, to day, most RV parks have a vehicle age limit.

 

[Hoot]

Since you have time on your side, might consider renting something akin to your candidate(s), examples on Outdoorsy or the RVShare site. Can be expensive, though conceivably can save you nickels as even a 2-3 day trial may alter your thoughts in unexpected ways. Also would recommend visiting local rv parks and talking to those who are in what you think you want. Another learning experience, and who knows you might just meet someone who'll want to be selling theirs about the time you'll want one.

 

[Smitty716]

Ppl motor homes in Texas has 2 or 3 nice class B’s for 22 k might google them

 

[Firtree]

Went from a Chevy/GMC hightop Van ‘88 5.7L to 1998 5.7L and the mpg jumped 3-4 mpg over same x-country trip; virtually same vehicle. Newer does have advantages

Chinook was a respected class C
Lazy Daze well made but you have to watch for aluminum bubbling in older years. Lots of info online about that issue
LD had a shorter 22 FT but that was early, mid 80s. Engines would be too tired with low mpg to consider.
BigFoot, BH ? have fiberglass bodies.

I do like the Class Bs. Roadtrek and Pleasureway being best known. Expensive. In the newer years have a skirt? that really reduces ground clearance.

+1 on the renting a class C or B. In and out of parking lots, parking, gravel roads, gas pumps, mountains, moving around inside, storage. Few days driving and living will show what works for you or not.

 

[Doubleone]

I'd stay with late '90s or newer. Ford or Chevy V8, although I wouldn't turn down an absolutely cherry rig with a V10 (but less gas mileage). Chevy will drive better than a Ford, but Chevy is getting more into the mid-2000s and newer. Both have fuel injected engines, mechanics are fairly familiar with the computers, good nationwide parts availability, better house appliances, better house designs and efficient utilization of space.

 

[Smitty716]

I really love my 1990 24 ft Montara class c Chevy chassis

 

[JD GUMBEE]

While some of you may have enjoyed increased MPG, fuel injection is not always assured of increased MPG.
Gearing...which transmission...how much you have on the roof...etc, are all huge factors in miles per gallon.
(Not to mention most people do not do the math on this stuff...and spend 8500 dollars in added purchase price, to end up saving less than $2,000 in fuel over the life of the vehicle.)
In an aged vehicle like the ones asked about, give me a carburetor and HEI GM ignition any day.
No high pressure fuel pump to fail.
No 30 year old sensors to fail.
One positive line to the distributor and gas to the carb (in the case of a GM V8 at least)...and it runs.
Less to go wrong=more reliability.

 

[highdesertranger]

I couldn't agree with Gumbee any more. my 1978 Chevy 1 ton dually crew cab 4X4 gets about 7mpg towing, but my buddy and his 2001 Toyota Tundra V-8 4x4 towing a toy hauler gets 7mpg. plus he is starting to have a lot of problems with plastic parts failing and electric issues. highdesertranger

 

[B and C]

I do like carbureted engines with electronic ignition. Electronic ignition sure did away with the points and plug changes every 7,500 miles. The only downside I really had was setting the timing as I went up and down in elevation. PITA in a van. Plastic parts on new vehicles are the pits.

 

[bullfrog]

HDR how much does your friends toyhauler weigh when he pulls it and what is the weight rating on the Tundra? My wife's 2002 Sequioa with the 4.7 has really impressed me. We bought it used and replaced struts, brakes, steering bushings, and had a cracked exhaust manifold welded. It had already had the timing belt replaced twice, brake and steering work at around 150,000 miles. It had been used to tow a boat most weekends and haul a family of seven for almost 200,000 miles. When it cracked the exhaust manifold and started setting O2 sensor codes they decided they didn't want to put any more money in that old of a vehicle. My wife decided she did want to buy and fix the car against my better judgment that is what we did. Happy wife, happy life. Most comfortable riding car we have ever had, drive it to and from town 500 miles round trip mostly between 75 MPH and 80 MPH loaded to the gills with frozen food and drinks. Empty it gets close to 18 MPG, loaded close to 16 MPG, towing a light weight trailer 13 MPG. Has a lever operated locking center differential for the 4 wheel drive so snow and slick dirt roads no problem. The only on the road problem we have had was a fan belt and an ignition coil ( which was visible and fixed in less than 5 minutes by removeing one nut and one electrical plug ). There is a ton of things that could go bad on this car and be super expensive to fix (No one rebuilds these 32 valve motors that I have found as it is cheaper to by a used one) but so far nothing has broken and if it continues getting down the road another 70,000 miles it will have paid for itself. There are a lot less complicated cars that are easier and cheaper to fix and I'm hoping I can get the old Surburban up to my wife's standards but since it's still not done you will probably see the old J10 being followed by a Sequioa at the RTR!

 

[highdesertranger]

I would just be guessing. my guess on the trailer weight would be 6,500 pounds. the tow rating of the Tundra would be a real guess, that's in the time frame when all the major manufacturers got their hand slapped for inflating the tow ratings of their trucks. highdesertranger

 

[bullfrog]

I still have a hard time believing how light todays light duty trucks are built. Just had a Wildlife officer break off a shock mount on his new Ford 4x4 pickup with no load in the bed coming out of the Henry Mountains just after the road was graded! That 4.7 is only 240 some cubic inches I believe and it is what 16 or 17 years old it is amazing it is still together towing that kind of weight over the kind of roads you are known to go over. Just courious do you know how many miles and how much he has had to do to it to keep it on the road?

 

[Doubleone]

I really like old Ford trucks, and I own two of them. Still, given my druthers, I'd much prefer a Tundra over the newer F150's. Some recent F150's had such weak frames they bent in passenger car use, and Ford sells replacement frames for them... What other car manufacturer sells a replacement frame?? Toyota is very thoughtful with engineering design and machining tolerances. Definitely built to last.

 

[Smitty716]

I also have a 1983 GMC lwb pickup with the carbureted 350 and HEI ignition, it gets 10 mpg empty or pulling a load

 

[highdesertranger]

Smitty if you need any parts for that Chevy truck let me know. highdesertranger

 

[JD GUMBEE]

Hope you folks with a Tundra never have to replace the starter (at least in the older models anyway, my customers stopped leasing them a while back) ...since the starter is between the heads.

(That's right. You have to remove the intake manifold to change the starter. 5.8 hours of book time on the last R.O. I drilled into...(because I was so shocked at the cost listed under labor for a starter replacement. Tractor trailers have starters replaced for a lot less $$$.)

Great idea, Toyota engineers. <SMH>
When we questioned Toyota about their reasoning, they said, "The engine was designed for racing, where space is a premium, thus the starter had to be placed under the intake. When we put it in the Tundra, there was no need to redesign an already proven design."
Any mechanic will tell you that starter should have been relocated into the bell housing instead...and a simple metal plug put in the block where the old buried starter originally sat.
(Even if the truck ended up costing a little more because of it.)
A starter should be 200 to replace...not 1200...

 

[Smitty716]

HDR , I restored the Interior last year, It will be going to paint soon. Truck only shows 113k miles But at around 65k My Dad had the 305 pulled out and a crate 350 from the dealer put in it so they could tow there camper better