Engine air cleaner upgrade.

[user 15722]

Speaking of headers, here's an episode of Engine Masters where they did dyno runs on the same engine with stock manifolds and two different types of headers.


And here's one comparing straight pipes vs. x-pipes vs crossovers.

I did watch those episodes a while back.

Did you also notice most the improvement was achieved at high rpm ?
And in most cases, HP at low rpm was actually less.

I am pretty leery when listening to HP tips from hot rodders.
I will be looking for mid-range torque for the long grades and overall fuel economy while driving conservatively to achieve it.

Best
wheels

 

[user 15722]

You don`t really need headers on an rv. A good free flowing exhaust will make a noticeable difference.

This is what I've been told, over the years, with BBC, until the point where everything else about the motor is full race.

Me ? I want a truck engine developing decent torque from low to mid-range rpm at normal operating speeds.
3" exhaust tube from the manifold back seems to be the most cost efficient improvement.

I would like to give solenoid operated cut-outs a try, one day, but that may be a no-no ???
wheels

 

[user 15722]

I used those fancy high dollar air cleaners in the 70's.     

Keep a clean filter and let the designers high dollar education do it's thing.  

Shade tree fixes give small returns for large investments.

imo, they probably will bring a small return, at the cost of incessant maintenance chores.
Biggest selling point is a shiny cover or stickers to put on the rear window.

If there is sufficient room in the doghouse, I can see an advantage to stacking doubled paper element air cleaners if your motor still uses that type.
wheels

 

[shadow]

imo, they probably will bring a small return, at the cost of incessant maintenance chores.
Biggest selling point is a shiny cover or stickers to put on the rear window.

If there is sufficient room in the doghouse, I can see an advantage to stacking doubled paper element air cleaners if your motor still uses that type.
wheels

I personally don`t give a damn about the shiny cover or stickers, I do what I know that works for me.
A factory stock air cleaner assembly is not designed to let your engine breathe to its fullest potential.
The same goes for the factory exhaust, its also designed to be very restrictive and to keep the engine as quiet as a mouse.

I upgrade the air filter and exhaust on every vehicle I own, and gain more power and better gas mileage every time.

I`m just trying to pass on some helpful information to those interested.

 

[Grizzly708]

How much bigger is the opening down through your carb/ throttle body than the opening on the old air filter housing?

I'd prefer my engine suck up cold/cool air from the tube which leads to the front of the vehicle rather than suck up hot underhood air.

Both of you are correct.  The engine will breathe much gooder with the open element filter, but cooler air is better. A cold air filter system would be best (the redneck in me is yelling "GET SOME PVC AND BUILT YA A SNORKEL !" )  K&N makes great kits as do several other companies.

 

[Grizzly708]

I have used so many gidgets and gadgets over the years claiming any from 3 to 60% better milage it's silly. But on the other hand,  I do have to stop every 427 miles to drain the excess gas from the tanks.

 

[shadow]

I have used so many gidgets and gadgets over the years claiming any from 3 to 60% better milage it's silly. But on the other hand,  I do have to stop every 427 miles to drain the excess gas from the tanks.

It just amazes the hell out of me how many people just don`t get it. And if you want to keep your rv, van, or what
ever stock, that`s totally up to you.

I don`t know why you or anyone else can`t understand that a factory intake or exhaust is designed to be very restrictive and quiet, and because of this you are losing gas mileage and power.

If you want to keep your vehicle stock, more power to you. I will continue to do what works for me.

 

[UptownSport]

You're not going to notice power changes from flipping the lid.

It does SOUND much faster!! LoL

A ordinary person isn't able to discern around 10% change in power, a professional driver 5%-

Cool dry air does increase power, but what you're getting is hot radiator wash.

MPG
When a vehicle is 'cruising', it's only using low double digits in power, unless you're towing a boat or something up a hill.

At that rate, you could likely use your lawnmower's exhaust and intake w/o noticeable difference.
The engine's airflow is severly 'throttled', and exhaust flow is reduced 'commensurately', LoL.

You can get electronics to do precise readings; G tech will give precise times/HP- It matches 1/4 slips exactly.

Driving slower- Looking way ahead and lifting throttle appropriately, is your best way to increase mileage, and save brake friction!
A concrete truck accelerated up a hill, then jammed on his brakes for the red light the other day- Cars were stopped and there's no way he didn't see them- Hard to imagine the amount of fuel and friction he must use just from shear thoughtlessness.

Getting the vehicle to warm up quickly is a big help, one glance at fuel injection warmup tables you'll see why.
Alcohol is far worse than gasoline for warmup.
a 205° thermostat helps fuel economy, engine longevity and power in general, but electric fans won't shut off.

Last, changing intake from factory design can bend your rods from water ingestion-
The rule seems to be don't put the intake in front of something- Like a firewall.
Lots of guys got rid of their air boxes and used a short hose w/ K&N type filter and would bend rods,
a buddy did his right by my place.

The factory, as much as we hate to admit it, does do things for a reason, and it's not always the reason you think.