Drok DCDC stabilizer fried

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townline

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I tried a DROK DC DC 5amp stabilizer between 12v LI battery and Maxxfan thinking overvoltage caused alarm problems with the fan The regulator fried after 2 days. Anyone have a clue why? Wiring was correct . Fan in use usually is drawing 1-2 amps.
 
The stabilizers run hot, the one I used I have a fan blowing on them if I plan on running more that 2 or 3 amps through them. I never opened one up but I suspect they have a small buck converter inside that can barely handle the rated output. Anything made in china, you divide by half just to be safe. If it says 10 amps, its probably better not to go over 5 amps. Especially without a fan blowing on it.

If you need something that will be running constant, you can always get a buck boost converter and put a small fan on it. I have one that I use on my fridge about 5 amps, thats been running 24/7 for almost 3 years. Just make sure its an all-in-one buck boost converter, when dealing with 12 volt to 12 volt DC-DC its the only way to keep max amps going to your devices.

buck boost converter use on my fridge set to 13.2 volts output.
1 boost buck fridge.jpeg

dc-dc 10 amp buck boost converter that I use (cost around 10 dollars). This is an all-in-one converter, it does the same thing that a stabilizer does. All you need is a small fan blowing on it to keep the electronics cool. These are better than the stabilizer since you can set the output voltage exactly where you want it, also the output amps can be adjusted. They work as a stabilizer/regulated output and can also be used as a battery charger since they are cc/cv with adjustable voltage/current. Note the large cooling fins, that shows how hot they can get requiring extra cooling.
a 10a buck boost.jpg
 
The stabilizers run hot, the one I used I have a fan blowing on them if I plan on running more that 2 or 3 amps through them. I never opened one up but I suspect they have a small buck converter inside that can barely handle the rated output. Anything made in china, you divide by half just to be safe. If it says 10 amps, its probably better not to go over 5 amps. Especially without a fan blowing on it.

If you need something that will be running constant, you can always get a buck boost converter and put a small fan on it. I have one that I use on my fridge about 5 amps, thats been running 24/7 for almost 3 years. Just make sure its an all-in-one buck boost converter, when dealing with 12 volt to 12 volt DC-DC its the only way to keep max amps going to your devices.

buck boost converter use on my fridge set to 13.2 volts output.
View attachment 33876

dc-dc 10 amp buck boost converter that I use (cost around 10 dollars). This is an all-in-one converter, it does the same thing that a stabilizer does. All you need is a small fan blowing on it to keep the electronics cool. These are better than the stabilizer since you can set the output voltage exactly where you want it, also the output amps can be adjusted. They work as a stabilizer/regulated output and can also be used as a battery charger since they are cc/cv with adjustable voltage/current. Note the large cooling fins, that shows how hot they can get requiring extra cooling.
View attachment 33877
Excellent points and suggestions. I agree that heat is the enemy of all electronics. I even mounted a large computer fan heat sink on my micro computer for some additional passive cooling which lowered the operating temperature about 15 degrees. It was not getting super hot or anything but, I just hate seeing electronic devices run warmer than I think they should be, the cooler the better. I also have a large heat sink on my ethernet switch too. My motorola cable modem was getting really warm so I mounted it on a board with a 5" fan about 4" from it. It runs very cool now.
 
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