Dodge mini van and a Scamp 13

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Sunseeker

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Is this an ok combo for full timing?
I've got two medium large three legged dogs (no joke) who can't get in or out of an SUV or any kind of truck and get a little stir crazy in confined spaces. They're not all that heavy but they're too heavy for me to lift in and out. Plus it scares the heck out of them when I try. Goofy dogs but I love them. I knew the low clearance of both the minivan and the scamp would limit my options for boondocking but that's just how it is.

The scamp weighs 1200 lbs. Maybe 1900 with full tanks and fully loaded. With empty tanks but still loaded with food and clothes etc. 1500lbs. The dodge is rated for 3500 with towing stability built in and a 400lb tongue weight. It's new and those numbers are why I chose it. (If I head for high elevations I'll be dumping the tanks first and filling again close to wherever I decide to stay awhile).

The scamp has 170 total tongue weight including propane and battery. It's just me and the dogs and I drive kinda slow.
I figure on adding solar to the minivan with a couple of flex panels on the roof and an AGM battery riding in a torklift box in the passenger foot well cos the dodge is front wheel drive so I think I need to try to keep weight over the front axel. It's also rated to carry 7000lbs which I'm pretty sure includes that tongue weight.

My thinking is the scamp will be pretty much for sleeping and washing. I've got a portable stove so I can cook outside. With all the seats stowed the minivan is big enough so the dogs can lie down and move around a bit while traveling. When camped I can work at my laptop in there if it's chilly out otherwise with the back doors open its like kind of a porch.

I'm planning to say bye bye to conformity and heating bills and humidity in early September and head west following the sun.

It can't be worse than my old Minnie Winnie that used to drop to 20mph with the pedal to the floorboards when I'd take it up to the White Mountains in New Hampshire, can it?
Am I crazy?
Should I avoid the highways all together? I'd actually prefer that.
 
is the van a v6?

that why god gave us gears,use them
 
the weak link would be the trans,add trans radiator and take your time
 
"trans radiator": more formally known as "transmission cooler"
 
at least i didnt call it a thingamajig so im getting better,kinda
 
When I tow my open utility trailer with motorcycle (500 lbs. bike and 700lbs. trailer), say another 500 lbs. for myself and gear, my 2005 Dodge Grand Caravan with 3.6 liter V6 has no problem on fairly level roads.  But I do notice braking distance is longer than the GC alone.  My trailer has no brakes, being under the 2,000 lb. limit.  Does your Scamp have trailer brakes?  Coming down a mountain grade could get "interesting" without them.
Total load capacity of the van is total trailer weight plus what you have in the van.  Not just toungue weight. Be careful.
 
Gary68 said:
at least i didnt call it a thingamajig so im getting better,kinda

yeah but you for got all about the do-hickey and the thing-a-ma-bob    :p   tjb
 
I had a 10 ft non braked travel trailer for about 10 years and towed that thing everywhere with a 2 ltr Toyota van, a 4 cylinder at times with two sea kayaks on the roof. I have a Dodge Caravan pop top now with a v6 I think mine is a 3.3 and that thing is way more powerful then the Toyota so in my opnion you will not have an issue other then higher fuel consumption and your braking distance as mentioned. There are a lot of advantages with a small travel trailer, I like the Scamp models. The trans cooler is a good idea on the Caravan, I have one on mine, these transmissions need all the help they can get.
 
I pulled a 17' Casita with a Dodge Minivan V6 all over the country with no problem. Used a weight distribution and sway control bar. Also, installed a transmission cooler and beefed up the rear leaf springs. This was a great combo and I never had any problems.

You need to anticipate the hills and grades and cause the transmission to shift out of overdrive. I never remember any hills I struggled up, although I-8 east out of San Diego was the worst pull I can recall; 25 miles or so of a pretty steep grade, and I did give the van a short rest at the top even though it was not overheated and not complaining.

Keep the engine RPMs up by downshifting out of overdrive, and keep an eye on the transmission fluid so you know it's not overheating; those are the two critical elements.

Good luck and enjoy your setup; it worked great for me and the vehicle had over 100,000 miles before we even started pulling the Casita.
 
Definitely add a large additional transmission cooler, and increase the service interval of fluid and filter. Make sure to use ATF+4 and not a universal fluid + friction modifier that most service centers will swear is just as good. It is not, except for their bottom line.

if No trailer brakes, then a more aggressive pads on the front brakes can help greatly.

I was a non believer that more aggressive pads could make a significant difference, but Bendix titaniummetallic2 pads stopping power was a huge increase over the my previous long life pads, but wore unevenly, and Hawk HPS pads I now are significantly more effective than those, with downright impressive braking power, hot, cold, and even wet.

If the rears are drum brakes, these rarely self adjust as designed/intended. Their proper adjustment also has a huge effect on braking power.
 
Do these minivans have a transmission fluid sensor that can be read with a ScanGauge or similar OBD-II tool? If so, that would be a wise investment: adjust your driving to keep the fluid below scorching temperature.

And can aftermarket trailer brakes be added if the trailer doesn't come with them?
 
as far as the scan gauge it depends on the make/model. you can always add a transmission temp gauge. which will scare you, when you see how hot your trans is getting.
yes brakes can be added look at your axle there should be a flange that the brakes bolt to. if you don't have a flange then you would have to change the axle. if you change the axle simply get one with brakes. highdesertranger
 
Electric brakes can be added to trailers, as can flipping the axle for better ground clearance.

In regards to the dogs abilities to climb in and out of vehicles, I recommend one of these, they work great. It took some training to teach MacKenzie to use it but it was a wonderful thing to have because I couldn't lift him in and out of the van, both because of his weight and his objections to my doing so... :rolleyes:
http://www.amazon.com/Best-Sellers-Pet-Supplies-Dog-Car-Ramps/zgbs/pet-supplies/3024186011
 
little hint here. the common phrase flipping an trailer axle is misleading. you don't actually flip the axle. you move the mounting from above the leaf springs to below. you need to weld new spring mounts on the axle. I have done it many times. highdesertranger
 
Wow thanks so much! That is all great information and has really relieved a great deal of worry. I don't have the minivan yet but I'll check to see if it's got a transmission fluid sensor and get one installed if it doesn't. Also the transmission cooler sounds like a great investment so I'll put that on my to do list along with the upgraded brake pads and beefing up the rear springs. Ive been looking at the weight distribution swat control bars but was hesitant. Now I'm not. I'm gonna go for those too. Better safe than splattered. You've all been so incredibly helpful! I really appreciate all the input and suggestions. My peace of mind is restored. Many thanks.
 
Almost forgot, the trailer does have electric brakes but I'm still gonna take it easy on the downgrades.
 
Any suggestions on which brake controller would work best? For some reason I thought the brakes on the trailer worked in synch with the brakes in the tv via the wiring harness. There aren't any real steep hills where I live now so brake controllers aren't legally required under 2000lbs but that limit fluctuates state to state. Obviously due to the given terrain. Any suggestions for which controller would work best would be greatly appreciated.
 
Tekonsha, Hayes, and Draw-tite are your top manufacturers. I have a Tekonsha, it's been total reliable for 20 years. for the most part you don't need an expensive one, just as long as it applies the trailers brakes when it's supposed to, has a gain control which adjust how hard your trailer brakes are applied, and have a little slide were you can apply just the trailer brakes by themselves. highdesertranger
 

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