I am a real beginner when it comes to solar. I have a grasp of the concept with sizing a system, solar aspect etc. I am looking for some guidance with my desire to have a chest deep freezer in my cargo trailer conversion. Having a deep freeze to make block ice to recharge our pelican cooler, buy meat in bulk or from local farmers, hunting, there a pile of good reasons for it. My question is basically am I dreaming or is this a decent option. I am considering using a standard house deep freeze and run it off an inverter from a yet to be built solar system. Or would it be better to just get a 12v freezer of some kind. Would like some guidance from folks with more experience in this field. Thanks!
Deep freezer option w/solar dc or ac
- Thread starter Blayne
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People swear by 12v. I will happily amp clamp post inverter my 120v fridge vs their 12v and put it to rest for 100th time. It wont change any minds but you will see no more current draw when compressor size is factored (and even then a small difference between even the smallest 12v unit) from 120v. Or they may pull half the amps but run 2x as long. Theres no free energy.
My 55qt fridge pulls 4.26A off my MSW inverter which pulls >.25A at idle with an average 6 minute run time. A PSW inverter will draw around 1A. Thats the catch...a PSW is easier on compressor and will run it with modestly less current but consumes 24Ah a day. When thats factored a 120v system overall might pull 10-20ah more a day.
With solar being dirt cheap thats an extremely marginal difference and doesnt justify paying 5-10× for hard to find and hard to replace 12v units. Especially if you need the inverter for other items anyway.
My 55qt fridge pulls 4.26A off my MSW inverter which pulls >.25A at idle with an average 6 minute run time. A PSW inverter will draw around 1A. Thats the catch...a PSW is easier on compressor and will run it with modestly less current but consumes 24Ah a day. When thats factored a 120v system overall might pull 10-20ah more a day.
With solar being dirt cheap thats an extremely marginal difference and doesnt justify paying 5-10× for hard to find and hard to replace 12v units. Especially if you need the inverter for other items anyway.
jimindenver
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I have to agree. I have a very expensive Engel 40 quart 12v that I use as a freezer. It pulls less when running but it also runs a lot more than a 3 foot deep freeze that has some decent insulation. A lot more as in it just ran for a while and was off for a minute and started right back up again. At nearly $900 I would suggest buying the $99 deep freeze and spending the rest on the solar system to run it. The solar system will come in handy for a lot of other things when the freezer isn't running.
You do not have to buy top of the line of course. There are a number of 12v units ranging in price from $200 to $300. You can buy a 20 quart for $199. It might make sense if you were limited in space for solar and gear such as in a car.
You do not have to buy top of the line of course. There are a number of 12v units ranging in price from $200 to $300. You can buy a 20 quart for $199. It might make sense if you were limited in space for solar and gear such as in a car.
highdesertranger
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now see I have had totally the opposite experience. I have 3 Engels I use one as a freezer and the other two as refrigerators. I have done this for years off of 180 watts of solar. here's what I do,
on shopping day I fill the freezer then turn it down all the way. on this setting it runs almost constantly. after 12 or 24 hours depending on the ambient temp. this freezes every thing rock hard I then turn the dial down to just above half way. this keeps everything frozen solid and it barely runs at all. in fact I have taken stuff out of the freezer and put I in one of the refrigerators to defrost, forget it if you want to eat it within a week. I won't defrost.
BTW I did try to run a fair size dorm fridge/freezer combo off of the same set up, no way it wouldn't work. I wish I never would have wasted the money on the 120v unit. I also wasted money on a propane refer/freezer and one of those Peltier units. I should have just bought a 12v unit right of the bat, I would be dollars ahead.
now if you have the room for the solar like I do now but didn't at the time it might work.
highdesertranger
on shopping day I fill the freezer then turn it down all the way. on this setting it runs almost constantly. after 12 or 24 hours depending on the ambient temp. this freezes every thing rock hard I then turn the dial down to just above half way. this keeps everything frozen solid and it barely runs at all. in fact I have taken stuff out of the freezer and put I in one of the refrigerators to defrost, forget it if you want to eat it within a week. I won't defrost.
BTW I did try to run a fair size dorm fridge/freezer combo off of the same set up, no way it wouldn't work. I wish I never would have wasted the money on the 120v unit. I also wasted money on a propane refer/freezer and one of those Peltier units. I should have just bought a 12v unit right of the bat, I would be dollars ahead.
now if you have the room for the solar like I do now but didn't at the time it might work.
highdesertranger
Fine. They shouldnt be made much different than any other chinese 12v unit or 3-way units. RV'ers been using full size ones for many years.
Just mount them well and secure. I use D-rings and a ratchet strap to keep it tight on floor. Plus its $60 to replace and never more than an hour drive to a walmart.
I got the little cube unit. Had it for 3 years now. Hated it before i went full time and wanted a bigger one. But with some glue and cut up lunch meat tupperware im shocked how much i can stuff in it. More than I can carry in water (25 gal) so i resupply before i run out of whatever in fridge.
Just mount them well and secure. I use D-rings and a ratchet strap to keep it tight on floor. Plus its $60 to replace and never more than an hour drive to a walmart.
I got the little cube unit. Had it for 3 years now. Hated it before i went full time and wanted a bigger one. But with some glue and cut up lunch meat tupperware im shocked how much i can stuff in it. More than I can carry in water (25 gal) so i resupply before i run out of whatever in fridge.
sub2rainEN
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I appreciate this. So often, people say 120 V fridge or freezer is “impossible.” Yet most people in skoolies and Sprinters seem to have them. I always note their solar and battery specs and they are in line with what I’ll have with a second panel (300-400).
I’d much prefer 120V because I cannot reach my propane valve easily, my lone house 12V plug doesn’t work, and I’d rather put money into panels and batteries that will serve other purposes than fixing those issues. Not to mention cost and availability of replacements are just much better.
Also, since I have a Class B with a center bed, there just isn’t floor space for a 12V. I plan to place on wood over the tub — vertical space is much more generous than horizontal.
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I’d much prefer 120V because I cannot reach my propane valve easily, my lone house 12V plug doesn’t work, and I’d rather put money into panels and batteries that will serve other purposes than fixing those issues. Not to mention cost and availability of replacements are just much better.
Also, since I have a Class B with a center bed, there just isn’t floor space for a 12V. I plan to place on wood over the tub — vertical space is much more generous than horizontal.
Elbear1 said:
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Almost There
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I run 2 12 V 65Qt Whynter units - one as a fridge and the other as a deep freeze. The fridge is set at 40 F and the freezer at 0 F. The temps are completely adjustable on these units. If ever needed I can switch the units around or turn both of them in to either fridge or freezer. I do keep both of them rather full which saves on energy.
They're powered by a bank of Trojan T105RE FLA batteries rated for 450 amp hours. I deliberately chose to use portable solar and to only have 200 watts of solar because I only use it for the winter months while I'm in the southwest. I charge the batteries with solar mostly and then bulk charge with generator power every second or third day.
With the van wired for 12V throughout (lighting, outlets etc) I rarely ever need to use the inverter. It's wired to a switch in the living area that I can turn on easily so that the inverter is not powered unless it's in use.
They're powered by a bank of Trojan T105RE FLA batteries rated for 450 amp hours. I deliberately chose to use portable solar and to only have 200 watts of solar because I only use it for the winter months while I'm in the southwest. I charge the batteries with solar mostly and then bulk charge with generator power every second or third day.
With the van wired for 12V throughout (lighting, outlets etc) I rarely ever need to use the inverter. It's wired to a switch in the living area that I can turn on easily so that the inverter is not powered unless it's in use.
highdesertranger
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just to clear some things up,
3 way fridges have no moving parts and are a completely different system then a compressor fridge. you can't compare the two. apples to oranges.
while many RV's and sckoolies do run residential units, they travel very little off road. this is exactly what 12v fridges were designed for, off road and marine.
most of the established 12v chest refrigerator manufacturers also make built ins and uprights. some even sell everything separate so you can do custom build of any configuration.
oh yeah none of mine were made in China.
now you can use what ever you want. I just told you what did work for me and what didn't. maybe it was the vibration of off highway driving, some years I put on 5,000 miles off highway. maybe I got a bad unit. I don't know why it sucked so much power and barely kept my food cold. but I do know it was a total waste of money. my oldest 12v is 10 years old and has been hauled all over the west off highway and it works just as good as when it was new. my second one is 9 years old same thing. 3rd one I bought used for not much more than a dorm fridge it's 5 years old.
highdesertranger
3 way fridges have no moving parts and are a completely different system then a compressor fridge. you can't compare the two. apples to oranges.
while many RV's and sckoolies do run residential units, they travel very little off road. this is exactly what 12v fridges were designed for, off road and marine.
most of the established 12v chest refrigerator manufacturers also make built ins and uprights. some even sell everything separate so you can do custom build of any configuration.
oh yeah none of mine were made in China.
now you can use what ever you want. I just told you what did work for me and what didn't. maybe it was the vibration of off highway driving, some years I put on 5,000 miles off highway. maybe I got a bad unit. I don't know why it sucked so much power and barely kept my food cold. but I do know it was a total waste of money. my oldest 12v is 10 years old and has been hauled all over the west off highway and it works just as good as when it was new. my second one is 9 years old same thing. 3rd one I bought used for not much more than a dorm fridge it's 5 years old.
highdesertranger
3-way fridges have brazed joints which is the main concern. And while class A's dont cone out here as often, C's, 5th wheels, homeade trailers, and skoolies always seen off-road. Furthermore other than engals ive never seen those 12v's advertised as "off-road." Im on the borederline of 4x4 90% of the time.
I got same setup there was no good space for a top opening unit without getting over-fancy. That was my main trial for the 120v. It was a $60 trial so why not. Then I measured it and looked up what all the 12v things were getting and laughed my ass off.
I got same setup there was no good space for a top opening unit without getting over-fancy. That was my main trial for the 120v. It was a $60 trial so why not. Then I measured it and looked up what all the 12v things were getting and laughed my ass off.
Almost There
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As for space for a top loading unit - one of mine is under the bed. The bed is sectioned with a total of 3 lift lids. One is over the fridge, one is deep storage for stuff I don't need often and the third is over the wheel well and serves as my laundry hamper.
The freezer is under the counter on a plywood tray I built. It has castors on it and it slides out easily from under the counter. I chose to put the freezer unit under the counter because it's easier to lift the bed section than it is to slide out the freezer. I'm only in to it maybe twice a day at most.
The freezer is under the counter on a plywood tray I built. It has castors on it and it slides out easily from under the counter. I chose to put the freezer unit under the counter because it's easier to lift the bed section than it is to slide out the freezer. I'm only in to it maybe twice a day at most.
jimindenver
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RV's don't off road much?
BRA HAHAHA
Good one HDR.
Actually after being on the road for three years I do not see anyone actually being "off road" except to pull into a site. I even had someone with a 4x4 Tiger tell me that he wouldn't follow me down a bad road, forget off road. Me on the other hand have no issues with being off road. The last spot required pulling the 25 ft trailer across a dry lake bed.
Lots of larger RV's have residential refrigerators. They of course have room for the solar.
BRA HAHAHA
Good one HDR.
Actually after being on the road for three years I do not see anyone actually being "off road" except to pull into a site. I even had someone with a 4x4 Tiger tell me that he wouldn't follow me down a bad road, forget off road. Me on the other hand have no issues with being off road. The last spot required pulling the 25 ft trailer across a dry lake bed.
Lots of larger RV's have residential refrigerators. They of course have room for the solar.
Its this simple
Idle current with some parasitic draw (.68A)
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[font=Tahoma, Verdana, Arial, sans-serif]with fridge after 30 seconds kicking compressor on.[/font]
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Thats on the negative lead between inverter and battery. (Neg just easier to hook around...makes no difference)
Thats 4.27A on a cheap harbor freight 1kw MSW
Idle current with some parasitic draw (.68A)
[font=Tahoma, Verdana, Arial, sans-serif]
[/font][font=Tahoma, Verdana, Arial, sans-serif]with fridge after 30 seconds kicking compressor on.[/font]
[font=Tahoma, Verdana, Arial, sans-serif]
[/font]Thats on the negative lead between inverter and battery. (Neg just easier to hook around...makes no difference)
Thats 4.27A on a cheap harbor freight 1kw MSW
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Pleasant Travels
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This is exactly the kind of info I need and have been looking for.
My situation is unique. I operate a hot dog cart that adds to my disability income. I thought I would have to give that up upon becoming a nomad,...but I have reconsidered, and plan on seeking out and serving at various carnivals, fairs and events along my unplanned meandering travels. I shall be aquiring a former SnapOn tool truck into which I will throw the cart, a 3-compartment sink and a couple chest freezers for keeping product, and to tow my trailer/residence. Between the roof space on the truck and the trailer, I certainly have enough space for enough panels. But figuring out whether to go the expense of the 12v freezers (over $1000 each) or a 120v household unit (I paid $100 for the one I've been using the last 5 years on Craigslist) has been too complicated to understand...until now.
My situation is unique. I operate a hot dog cart that adds to my disability income. I thought I would have to give that up upon becoming a nomad,...but I have reconsidered, and plan on seeking out and serving at various carnivals, fairs and events along my unplanned meandering travels. I shall be aquiring a former SnapOn tool truck into which I will throw the cart, a 3-compartment sink and a couple chest freezers for keeping product, and to tow my trailer/residence. Between the roof space on the truck and the trailer, I certainly have enough space for enough panels. But figuring out whether to go the expense of the 12v freezers (over $1000 each) or a 120v household unit (I paid $100 for the one I've been using the last 5 years on Craigslist) has been too complicated to understand...until now.
sub2rainEN
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If I had the physical ability and tools for a self-build, I would love an under counter fridge. I’ve seen them in builds and it’s a great use of space.
However, my bed only lifts a bit and has barely room for 2 extra batteries, over my fridge is a shelf that’s partly open and runs under a cabinet and then the cabinet would be blocked. I could put one on rollers and move between blocking side doors and kitchen/bath. Or have permanently in passenger seat. That’s probably the most viable, or having a very small one over the tub, but I don’t even have a working 12V plug except the lighter, so it just doesn’t make sense for me.
If I were to ever change rigs I would incorporate all kinds of great space saving design ideas, but gotta work with what I have now.
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However, my bed only lifts a bit and has barely room for 2 extra batteries, over my fridge is a shelf that’s partly open and runs under a cabinet and then the cabinet would be blocked. I could put one on rollers and move between blocking side doors and kitchen/bath. Or have permanently in passenger seat. That’s probably the most viable, or having a very small one over the tub, but I don’t even have a working 12V plug except the lighter, so it just doesn’t make sense for me.
If I were to ever change rigs I would incorporate all kinds of great space saving design ideas, but gotta work with what I have now.
Almost There said:
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sub2rainEN
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This is a real YMMV situation. I have very little mobility, can’t stand for more than a few seconds, have few tools and almost no knowledge. I would not trust myself to do anything with electricity that wasn’t plug and play.
I’d like to buy another inverter and wire lithiums to it because I suspect my old gal’s original system is faulty (electricity didn’t work on inverter in spring or summer, now it does, water pump, heater, and monitors went out in spring).
But I have to balance what little I can do physically, what I think is wise or not for me to do, and what I can afford to pay other people to do. If I had the money and physical ability, I would have had a self build and been on the road 2 years ago.
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I’d like to buy another inverter and wire lithiums to it because I suspect my old gal’s original system is faulty (electricity didn’t work on inverter in spring or summer, now it does, water pump, heater, and monitors went out in spring).
But I have to balance what little I can do physically, what I think is wise or not for me to do, and what I can afford to pay other people to do. If I had the money and physical ability, I would have had a self build and been on the road 2 years ago.
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Gypsy Freedom
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i run both. 12v dc direct and 120v ac via an inverter.
on the cheap small side i can do either for about the same costs. dorm fridge off the shelf or amazon and an inverter and you are in
i have had much more problems with the 120 dorm fridge failing compared to my 12v units. i can attribute much of that discrepancy to quality. my 12v stuff is top of the line made for rugged hot conditions and has been rock solid for years. the amazon imported dorm fridge will never be able to compete. i have a dead one right now. died at around 9 months. need to see if it is a simple fix or if it is worth fighting for a warranty service or just grab another
on the cheap small side i can do either for about the same costs. dorm fridge off the shelf or amazon and an inverter and you are in
i have had much more problems with the 120 dorm fridge failing compared to my 12v units. i can attribute much of that discrepancy to quality. my 12v stuff is top of the line made for rugged hot conditions and has been rock solid for years. the amazon imported dorm fridge will never be able to compete. i have a dead one right now. died at around 9 months. need to see if it is a simple fix or if it is worth fighting for a warranty service or just grab another
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