Cummins Canoe (A Stepvan Story)

[PlethoraOfGuns]

Finally had a day or two without snow. Boy, what a winter.

[size=small]For those that are wondering, this is how you get the engine and transmission in and out of the van. Super easy with plenty of room to work with. Just need to remove the passenger seat.[/size]

[size=small]Got everything hooked up. All the new sensors and things installed too. Can we talk about an amazing invention? They're called cable ties, so simple and so useful.[/size]

[size=small]A shot looking down at the the magnetic pickup sensor for the tachometer on the drivers side of the bellhousing. This one has me worried. Witchcraft is how it all works. We'll see if I casted the proper spells to make this one work.[/size]

[size=small]Cut a hole in the dash for the tachometer. Found out why the floor heat wasn't working so great. Damn Tennessee rodents...[/size]

[size=small]Also for anyone curious about the spells to make this tachometer work with the magnetic pickup sensor.[/size]

And there we go. Four new gauges added and we're good to go. All power is good, hoses connected, fluids topped off, everything cable tied, turned the key and...

 

[highdesertranger]

"turned the key and..."

Dang that's not fair.

Highdesertranger

 

[mudbunny]

Yeah, never been that lucky either. Always some little thing to sort out. Time to go break it in.

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[Zmann]

I have a more perplexing question, why am I so easily startled? But enough about me... well done. I'm guessing the rodents did more damage then the eye can see.

 

[PlethoraOfGuns]

Haha, I love cliffhangers! Tune in next time... Lots to do, all the time, doesn't stop. The rodents just made nests all up inside the ductwork. Not really any physical damage, just had to take the dash further apart to remove and clean out all the ducts. Easy task in a step van. Can't imagine mice making nests inside the ductwork of a Sprinter and having to remove the heater core and all the ducting in one of those. Pulled out what I think were three different nests. Now we have great airflow!

 

[PlethoraOfGuns]

Well, the engine is running pretty good. There is a rubber-like chirp at idle, but other than that she's cherry. Still have everything left to do.

To remind myself when she got new engine, here is a photo pf the odometer. Lets see if this engine can get her to 1,000,000 miles, we're not too far off...

While we're up front cleaning up all the wires from the gauge mess, put together this little switch panel. It mostly switches auxiliary lights and such. Good to get rid of some of these wires that have been dangling all about the last couple months. Good thing I cut off and save old connector couplings. This one had plenty of wire spaces for our needs. And later, if need be, the switch panel will be very easy to remove.

[font=Tahoma, Verdana, Arial, sans-serif]Found a sweet spot for this switch panel. Just had to make this bracket right quick.[/font]

All the lights work as they should! Also have 12v outlet and USB charger up in the cab now. Driving around with a portable pocket charge pack was getting old. Hey look, the engine is idling at a nice 700 rpm! And the alternator is actually working, giving us 13.7v.

Cleaned up the last of the stray wiring in the cab. Wired the block heater to this switch with the red light, so now we can easily turn it on or off when an electric cord is plugged into the shore power plug we installed awhile back. Not sure if we'll ever need the block heater, the old engine started when it was 12 degree f. But hey TX can be even colder than that, so who knows, we might need block heater. The power from the shore plug first goes through this circuit breaker above that single outlet. That will protect all the wiring in the back of the van when we're plugged into shore power. When we're not plugged into shore power, we'll need another method to get power to the outlets. Hmmm...

 

[flying kurbmaster]

Have you taken it for a test drive, good job you guys, congrats on getting her back together and running.It certainly looks great.

 

[PlethoraOfGuns]

Thanks! Yes, we have driven it. Doesn't seem to have the same power as before, might need to play with settings on the injection pump. Van is also getting heavier, but it does drive and will do 65mph safely.

 

[Zmann]

Head scratcher...you'll figure it out...this is when my mind goes blank...

 

[flying kurbmaster]

By safely at 65 you mean, she is not over reving then that’s very good for one of these based on mine. Mine is happy at 50 55. I have travelled at 70 but she is screaming ´I can’t run this fast you ***** if you don’t slow down I,m going to smack you with one of my pistons.´

 

[PlethoraOfGuns]

Haha yep, that kinda safe. Now that I have a tachometer, I know the injection pump is governed at 2500rpm, and that's fine with me! I think at 65mph she is sitting around 2200rpm. So I think her normal cruising speed for good fuel economy will be around 55mph in overdrive. Need more testing on that subject.

 

[DixonM]

My truck with an allison 1000 series trans that has the 5 spd tune and a 4.10 gear runs 65 mph at 2000 rpm and 60 mph 1700 rpm. I almost always go 65 mph on the interstate some times i will run 70 if in a hurry with it. But I can run up to 75 mph that is the speed limit I had cummins set the top speed and cruise control top speed at but I do not believe i can hold enough fuel to go far at that speed was holding around 28 psi of boost.  

 

[PlethoraOfGuns]

Step vans aren't made for speed. But we do what we can. Your rig is faster than mine. At 55mph, I'm doing about 1700rpm I believe. I think I need to play with the injection pump. I just don't have the power I was expecting. Loading it up, I'm only doing 7psi of boost and it's not getting hotter than 700degrees on the pyrometer.

 

[mudbunny]

Could be a waste gate spring but does sound more like a fuel problem. Might have some adjustment with the pump plate. My brother worked at a dodge dealership in the 90s and would adjust the pumps on the side after work on the 6bt's. Not allowed at work, voided warranty. He also had a pattern for modifying the plate for even more power with a little grinding. Low temp suggests low fuel pressure though.

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[DixonM]

You definitely have an issue if your only getting 7 psi look for boost leaks and also check to make sure you don't have any fuel restrictions also. On the p7100 pumps I have seen the fuel shut off solenoid arm rust out and the rubber boot would pull the fuel arm about half way and that will give you low power also. I am sure you will get it ironed out you have done the hard part already.

 

[PlethoraOfGuns]

No waste gate on this turbo. The new turbo finally came in, and that has a waste gate on it, but I'm not gonna throw that on until I get the intercooler installed. This engine has the VE pump, not the P pump. The lift pump is brand new, I'm thinking it just needs more fuel. Will check the fuel pressure for sure.

 

[Zmann]

Check muffler bearings and blinker fluids ...look for SAE ratings as per the U.S. commission on higher torque performance as it relates to improved fuel efficiency...US Department of Energy sub heading weights and measures...

 

[mudbunny]

Don't forget a can of sqelch when you pickup the new muffler bearing.

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[PlethoraOfGuns]

Switched to led's, no longer need blinker fluid. And unfortunately I still have a muffler bearing. No way around that, it's very critical to the vehicle.

 

[Zmann]

May you and yours have many miles of enjoyment in your new and improved ride...