Crock pot into cig lighter while driving

[backroadjunkie]

[font=Tahoma, Verdana, Arial, sans-serif]I have a small (1.5 qt)[/font][font=Tahoma, Verdana, Arial, sans-serif] 120v crock pot. Watts 95 (8 amp 12v).  Question: Is it safe/wise to run it from my cig lighter, using a small 150 watt inverter while driving.  Cig lighter is rated for 10 amp.  I[/font][font=Tahoma, Verdana, Arial, sans-serif]s continuous 8 amps plus a little use for inverter, too much for a 10 amp rated cig lighter?  thank you   :s [/font]

 

[user 37446]

I haven't done so however looking at the wattage and amperage it could certainly work.

Just have to watch the ciggie plug wiggling out or some actually overheat and melt! I did have that happen...

 

[WanderingRose]

I did that a couple of times, and it did work, tho I could hear power “surging” at that connection.

 

[bullfrog]

Why take the chance? Wire a designated circuit with its own fuse near the source of power (power block mounted near the battery or on the firewall from the starter) and use a better style plug like an Anderson and never have to worry about burning up all the factory wiring due to high loads.

 

[JDub]

Since we're on the subject of cooking appliances, I had enough points left to get $20 off of this: https://hotlogic.com/collections/mini-oven/products/hot-logic-mini-12v when I pulled the trigger on that 12v fridge last night. Comes with a glass dish. I've read the articles recommending this type of on the road oven by Mr. Bob in his blog section and he seems to like his Road Pro version. So I took a chance and got it. I plan on running it through my vehicle power plug on the dash. My question is: Are these things actually reasonably safe to use with just the vehicle plug or should I run it off the battery bank?

Thanks!

 

[bullfrog]

As stated above some have had problems with melted plugs and loose plugins usually caused by things getting warm. In my opinion running factory circuits near their capacity often and for long periods makes me want to install a new better quality plug and circuit. The source of power is not the problem especially if you bank is being charged by your alternator while driving when you use it. Anytime you use 12 volt power to heat it is a fairly high load and in my opinion you need a better circuit in most cases and definitely a better plug than a ciggy plug. Again this is just my opinion. If you are going to run several 12 volt appliances it is best to use a distribution block and quality connectors. Save the factory ciggy plugs for light load things like phones and such.

 

[jacqueg]

[font=Tahoma, Verdana, Arial, sans-serif]I have a small (1.5 qt)[/font][font=Tahoma, Verdana, Arial, sans-serif] 120v crock pot. Watts 95 (8 amp 12v).  Question: Is it safe/wise to run it from my cig lighter, using a small 150 watt inverter while driving.  Cig lighter is rated for 10 amp.  I[/font][font=Tahoma, Verdana, Arial, sans-serif]s continuous 8 amps plus a little use for inverter, too much for a 10 amp rated cig lighter?  thank you   :s [/font]

I wouldn't, unless your crockpot is specifically designed to be run from a cig plug. Some of them are, so check for info on your unit. 

Last year, still new to vehicle electricity, I started a fire. Luckily I was right there, and the only lasting damage was to my ego, the (too small) cable I was using, my seat covers, and the towel I used in an attempt to douse the flames. But it was a pretty exciting 30 seconds!

 

[JDub]

As stated above some have had problems with melted plugs and loose plugins usually caused by things getting warm. In my opinion running factory circuits near their capacity often and for long periods makes me want to install a new better quality plug and circuit. The source of power is not the problem especially if you bank is being charged by your alternator while driving when you use it. Anytime you use 12 volt power to heat it is a fairly high load and in my opinion you need a better circuit in most cases and definitely a better plug than a ciggy plug. Again this is just my opinion. If you are going to run several 12 volt appliances it is best to use a distribution block and quality connectors. Save the factory ciggy plugs for light load things like phones and such.

Thanks very much for the advice. I'm with you, I don't believe that the installed vehicle socket would do too well with high draw heating element types of plug ins. I'm also of the opinion that the wire in the provided power cable is usually too thin in these things as well. I really didn't need this (I'm the aluminum foil packet on the engine block type) but I had some points to burn and this came up. I recalled that it was something the site founder had recommended and went for it. I'll probably try it hooked up to a higher quality socket operating off the battery bank. Or, I'll end up giving it away as a thank you after being rescued from some Monty Pythonish situation that I'm sure to get in...

 Cheers!

 

[XERTYX]

Since we're on the subject of cooking appliances, I had enough points left to get $20 off of this: https://hotlogic.com/collections/mini-oven/products/hot-logic-mini-12v 

The hot logic "ovens" have a great reputation. I'm planning to get one myself. Also a road pro oven actually. The hot logic I believe is rated at 45 watts and is less of an oven and more of a warmer. While you can cook foods in them as I understand it you cannot bake in it. The road pros you can bake but they're several hundred watts I believe, so they're more of an oven and the hot logic is more of a slow cooker type thingie.

 

[JDub]

Good Morning.

A soft sided hotpot. That makes sense. From what I've read about it, that seems to fit the description of just what it does. I'm really not much of a gadget type but I took a chance on this. I'm just very wary of overdrawing my vehicle plugs and doing damage to the wiring. I think I'll follow bf's advice and rig a dedicated socket off the house batteries. It WOULD be nice to stick something into it on a long drive day and have it hot and ready when you stop (if I can keep the dog out of it ).

Cheers!

 

[XERTYX]

Yeah that's sound advise. Some people I have seen use rice cookers on their ciggy lighter while driving and hey it works for them, but also they may have replaced the factory plug with a heavy duty one.

Honestly i probably would use a hot logic on the ciggy lighter on a long drive as 45 watts is pretty small about the same as charging 3 cell phones. But it's very wise not to tempt fate.

Best of luck and well wishes!

 

[JDub]

I'll try both methods and report back. A little experiment I suppose. Has anyone tried one of these?

https://www.walmart.com/ip/EEEkit-C...-Waterproof-Plug-LED-Blue-Green-Red/680608590

Cheers

 

[XERTYX]

I haven't but that's a 10a fuse so probably 10a rated wire. 12v x 10a= 120 watts. Pretty flimsy. From personal experience I wouldn't reccomended any 12v sockets from Wally world. Their in store stuff at least. I got a splitter from Wally once that had thick insulation but it got hot. So I stripped it off and the wiring inside was like 26g thin wire. Barely more than bell wire and perfect for starting fires.

Go for a marine grade ciggy socket. Rated for high amps.

 

[XERTYX]

This is the best I could scrounge up at the moment. The title claims its 20a but the description says 15a.

https://www.amazon.com/Motorcycle-Cigarette-Lighter-Accessory-Socket/dp/B00AQA6V98

 

[bullfrog]

If you are going to use ciggy sockets and plugs stick with high quality marine type like Blue Sea. In my opinion you are better off with some other system like Anderson plugs and sockets. You will probably eventually have several 12 volt accessories to plug in and you really want all of them to stay plugged in while bouncing down the road, especially refrigerators, so why not go ahead and standardize all of them to something better. Now a days you can get fixtures that work in the stock ciggy plug locations. That way everything works in every location should you need it to. You can make a adaptor pigtail if you absolutely need a ciggy plug but once you have one heat up or pop out which will eventually happen you will wish you had converted everything to something better, again just my opinion.

 

[XERTYX]

Personally I hard wire things with blade connectors or ring terminals. Even my first solar bank which had a ciggy 100 watt inverter. I took it apart and hard wired it. I also had spade terminals that I connected a black and decker mini sawzall to for repairs on my old boat.

The 7.2v sawzall I lubed the motor with graphite and it worked well on 12v. The battery from it went into an LED lighting system I had. But I'm somewhat of a mad scientist.

Some folks seem to like the "ease" of ciggy terminals. Personally I always remove them except for cell phone chargers.

 

[JDub]

Thanks to both of you bf and XERTYX for your very sound advice (the forum site was down for a while). I haven't got much in the way of 12v stuff. A fan, an air compressor for the tires, the upcoming 12v refer, and this little heating thingie. I've always been more of propane guy for heating, lighting and cooking. Whenever I get the opportunity to ditch modern stuff I run with the pioneer type equipment. To avoid adding to fire circles I even have a steel briquet table for grilling and dutch ovens.

I don't have the solar battery bank permanently installed in the Jeep since I have always planned to get a trailer of some sort - I usually just take half - 2 batteries and 2 panels to top off after bulk charging w the gennie. Many times I don't even have to run the gennie for days on end since I use so little power. I suppose I'll have to every day with the fridge. I think I'm going to go with both worlds here. A very robust heavy duty fused cig socket.and a more permanent type of connector as suggest by you both. I just need to think about what to do w the fridge in the meantime since it's  cig socket corded for the DC power cable. Standard plug in for the AC. Maybe use one of my smaller inverters for it. the 750W mght be good.

Speaking of 12v devices - I had gone hiking earlier at one of our C of E dam parks. When I got back, the Hot Logic had arrived (our Overlords of Commercialism have this almost instant gratification thing down pat). I took some pictures of it. Just need to figure out how to post them. It seems very well made.

Cheers!

 

[XERTYX]

Yeah the site was down for me for a bit as well, if you're not comfortable with hard wiring something I wouldn't suggest it, but it is quite simple once you've done it a few times.

Possibly see if you can order a replacement cord and hard wire that one so you aren't desoldering the connector or cutting the wire off depending on how well made the plug is. (I've only ever had one device that the plug was so well built I had to cut the wire. Mostly they can be desoldered.)

I'm planning on the alpicool fridge and I do plan to hardwire it but I make no claims that you should yada yada so forth and so on.

A hot logic I would probably leave with the ciggy plug. Just for ease of use and if you have a second vehicle or a travel trailer.

As far as running an inverter to power the fridge instead of the ciggy plug that would be more secure... but at a cost of 10-30% inefficiency as well as self consumption of the inverter itself. Food for thought.

 

[JDub]

I'm just speaking for the Jeep here in terms of using the inverter for a couple days at a time. I can plug it into the generator if the batteries are low. I really don't have much in the way of stuff needing refrigeration on my short term trips. Just trying to project requirements for the long term. When I get the trailer I'm going to order it without the 3 way fridge and use a more permanent connector to hardwire the 12v into the system. I'm comfortable modifying power cords and doing basic wiring. I just want be sure I'm not needlessly doing it. Finally figured out the pix thing

 

[XERTYX]

Oh groovy! As you make some meals with it why not take a few pics and do a review in the food section?

I have heard nothing but good things about the hot logic. I'd love to see how well it works for you. Cheers.