Considering EPEVER 4210AN 40a Charge Controller

[XERTYX]

So as the budget allows I will start to acquire the parts for my solar array. I'm gonna be on a shoestring budget for the time being as my van purchase wiped me out financially. 

Reasons for going whole hog on the 4210AN

● Budget is a concern BUT I plan to later upgrade to 2 250 watt residential panels. This will work for a couple of 100 watt polycrystalline panels from amazon but still support the voltage and amperage when I swap out later for residential panels.

● Spend once cry once. I considered the 20a model for ~$40 less that I would later have no use for when I swapped out the panels for beefier ones.

● If I used an el cheapo controller in the interim I would again have no use for it later and maybe fry my batteries.

● I like the fact that it has a 40a max Load and it can display the current/wattage from the load. I presently do not have a killawatt meter and I'd like to see how much draw a 300w rice cooker actually has in a real world setting. (I have a 500w thrift store find inverter already)

So. Anything I have clearly missed? Any reason I shouldn't use this charge controller?

 

[bullfrog]

I like the idea of multiple systems as back up. When I add a panel I add a controller. There is also the fact that lower amperage controllers are cheaper.

 

[XERTYX]

Yeah I did consider that the 20a is cheaper but for $40 more I think I'm gonna have to go with the 40a model. Then I have nothing more to buy when I swap out. As for the 100 watt panels when I remove them for the upgrade I'm sure I can find a use for them. XD

I had thought about going with a 20a and then when I did upgrade add another 20a controller and have redundancy but I like the 40a load capability. Also they sell a wifi adapter for the com port that can be operated from android/iOS that has a LOT of nifty settings. The load can be remotely switched on/off as well as setting a timer for the load so I'm liking that functionality.

 

[bullfrog]

Yep my point exactly, by using separate controllers I don’t have to worry about compatibility of components as my batteries don’t care where the charge comes from and actually since I run dedicated wiring for each maybe a little more efficiently at charging them. Cost wise it is probably about the same.

 

[XERTYX]

Well a new wrinkle. I've been staying with a friend during the cold months and I just found out today her adult son is facing eviction so he will be moving back in possibly the end of February. So I have to get in the road before the build.

I have a home base on my family property where I have my mini AGM solar setup. It's only 20 watts of solar and a crappy 10a Chinese controller. So once I pick up my van this week I guess I'll order 1 100 watt panel and a 12v parking heater from amazon which I had hoped to buy later in the year but life happens.

So I guess I'll use my crap controller and 28ah mini agm bank with a $80 mono panel for the time being. So the 40a controller budget will be going towards a parking heater and I'll only be able to use it intermittently with such a small bank.

C'est la vie. Plus ça change plus c'est la meme chose. N'est pas?

 

[wayne49]

I have a rice cooker that is rated at 350W, the Kill-a-watt tells me that it only uses 340W while cooking. Only runs at that rate for a few to several minutes.

 

[XERTYX]

Yeah rice cookers are great. I dont have a killawatt meter to test mine but it makes pastaroni $1 meals in a few minutes, rice of course, and I have tested boiling 6 eggs in it and it only needs to run for 14 minutes to hard boil them perfectly. The residual heat finishes the cooking. So if it did use 300 watts the entire time and runs for 15 minutes that's still only 75wh. Not too shabby to make some egg salad sandwiches from free energy the sun gives you.

Edit
I should probably do that math a little better so that no one gets bent out of shape.

300w÷12v=25a  inverter losses 25a*1.2= 30a  30a*.25h=7.5a 7.5a*12v=90wh

 

[XERTYX]

Well I think I have arrived at a decision. As I dont have the amount of time I'd hoped for and after crunching the numbers on my budget I've decided on the EPEVER charge controller but the 20a model for $80, 2 100 watt polys on Amazon for $70 each and a single group 29DC marine deep cycle battery from Walmart. I'll still be able to afford the 12v parking heater and have the amp hours to use it as often as I need it.

Once I'm ready to upgrade to 250w panels I'll add another 20a controller and buy 4 new 29DCs and the first 29DC I'll find a use for until I get a travel trailer which will come hopefully by the fall.

I found a local trailer dealer that sells a new 5'x8' travel trailer for $1995 with a skylight preinstalled that's the same size as a Maxx fan. If I cant find an old camper trailer to fix up I'll most likely be saving towards that trailer.

 

[user 423]

Are you buying the EPEVER off Amazon? I recently bought that same controller and sent it back because it was packed very poorly. It was sent by Y-Solar.

I didn't install it and couldn't be sure it was damaged but I didn't want to take a chance and have to hassle with a warranty claim.

It had virtually no protective packing and was sent in a bag. The corner of the box was dented.

I returned it and bought the Renogy Rover 20A model. It's the basic model without the BT module but it did come with a temp probe which is $16 extra on the EPEVER. But then the Renogy does cost more at $110.

In comparison to the EPEVER, it was packed well surrounded by styrofoam.

 

[XERTYX]

Yeah it is the Y solar vendor from amazon. I'll look around and see where else I can find it, but I need it quick.

*Edit*
The same model is available on amazon from spring mirror for $3 more. I think I'll go that route. Thanks for the heads up.

 

[XERTYX]

So once I get the stimulus I'm gonna go ahead and take the plunge I think. I want to go with 2 250w panels and the 40a epever.

Here is my question. I want to remove the MC4 connectors and rewire the panels. I dont like removable connectors.

It would be much easier logistically then to wire them in series rather than parallel. The controller supports up to 100v input. The panels output in series would be around 80v.

Will the controller support wiring in series so long as the voltage is under the threshold and it's under the 520w max wattage for the controller for a 12v battery bank?

Or will the controller only support wiring in series for a 24v battery bank? When you watch renogy's how to videos they say series is only for 24v systems. Parallel is only for 12v systems. Is that just their controllers?

I have only ever ran 12v systems with panels connected in series.

 

[B and C]

Removing the MC-4 connectors will likely void your warranty.

I don't have an epever controller so can't speak to that.

 

[XERTYX]

Oh I'm famous for voiding warranties. I'm not worried about that. I'll be using used panels.

 

[gtinseth]

So once I get the stimulus I'm gonna go ahead and take the plunge I think. I want to go with 2 250w panels and the 40a epever.

Here is my question. I want to remove the MC4 connectors and rewire the panels. I dont like removable connectors.

It would be much easier logistically then to wire them in series rather than parallel. The controller supports up to 100v input. The panels output in series would be around 80v.

Will the controller support wiring in series so long as the voltage is under the threshold and it's under the 520w max wattage for the controller for a 12v battery bank?

Or will the controller only support wiring in series for a 24v battery bank? When you watch renogy's how to videos they say series is only for 24v systems. Parallel is only for 12v systems. Is that just their controllers?

I have only ever ran 12v systems with panels connected in series.

I am not sure what Renogy is talking about. If you have an MPPT controller and the series voltage of your panels is under the max of the controller, you are fine. Series means less amps and smaller wires from the panels to the controller which is nice. I don't see any problem removing the MC4 connectors. Make sure your homemade connections are better and waterproof.

I have the Epever 3215bn and it is a beast. The case is essentially a big aluminum heatsink, so no heat problems ever. I have the bluetooth addition and although the app is clunky, it makes doing a custom charge profile for LiFePO4 easy and also you can see all sorts of data as well. Will Prowse seems to like the Epevers in his big head to head RV controller video.

 

[66788]

So as the budget allows I will start to acquire the parts for my solar array. I'm gonna be on a shoestring budget for the time being as my van purchase wiped me out financially. 

Reasons for going whole hog on the 4210AN

● Budget is a concern BUT I plan to later upgrade to 2 250 watt residential panels. This will work for a couple of 100 watt polycrystalline panels from amazon but still support the voltage and amperage when I swap out later for residential panels.

● Spend once cry once. I considered the 20a model for ~$40 less that I would later have no use for when I swapped out the panels for beefier ones.

● If I used an el cheapo controller in the interim I would again have no use for it later and maybe fry my batteries.

● I like the fact that it has a 40a max Load and it can display the current/wattage from the load. I presently do not have a killawatt meter and I'd like to see how much draw a 300w rice cooker actually has in a real world setting. (I have a 500w thrift store find inverter already)

So. Anything I have clearly missed? Any reason I shouldn't use this charge controller?

I cook rice on the propane stove and it turns out great.  No need for electricity to do that job.

Epever MPPT controllers are good, nice choice.  Get LifePo4 batteries if they are in your budget.

I have 2 rigs.  One with 200 watts, the other with 500 watts.   200 watts is enough for me.

 

[XERTYX]

I just now noticed the renogy video I mentioned is 7 years old and also mentions a pwm controller. But yeah it does say that series is for a 24v system. I just wanna make sure the epever can be wired in series with ~38v panels as the input voltage is up to 100v

Renogy video


Yeah I have cooked rice on propane before but I always burn it. Besides I like the idea of using no fuel. On a sunny day if the batteries are full it would be just free cooking from the 500 watts of solar.

Also I use a rice cooker to make lots of things. Boiled eggs for example. Pasta-roni $1 boxed pasta turns out perfect in a rice cooker as well. I tried making a cake but that didnt turn out well. Models commonly available in Asia often have a cake setting. Rice cookers are very versatile so long as you dont need to heat higher than 212°F/100°C