cargo trailer?

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Watch Bobs video on Cargo trailer. I did. I bought a new Interstate trailer for 2800. I think it was a great decision. Built my bed, kitchen and storage, insulated it and put in linoleum and ceiling wallboard. Including my ac/do refrigerator and 2000 watt pure sine generator I spent less than 800. 6 by 10 was perfect for me.
 
tx2sturgis said:
Another source for cargo trailers...looks like they will do quite a bit of upgrading to make it the way you want it...

Of course: $$$$$ are part of that.

http://diamondcargo.com

Okay, this is pretty awesome.  Thanks for the site link, Brian.  The more I looked at manufactured travel trailers, the more I hated them.  I really love the idea of creating a plan that works for me and eliminating the problems that the systems cause.  This site has way more options than others I have looked at.

Question:  I recall someone saying that the trailers produced in GA are not all that great.  Is that true of all of them or can you suss out a good trailer from that location?

I've been looking seriously at a Homesteader trailer from a dealer near me.  It has Dexter axles and I like everything else about the construction.  I've been sharing emails with them and today, in response to some questions I had, they told me that the 30x15 slider windows would be $640 each!!!  Every other place I've contacted has those size slider windows installed for around $175 each.  How difficult is it to add windows for someone with limited mechanical ability?  I trust my ability to do things like insulate and finish the walls, ceilings and floors but I'm not so sure about adding a window.
 
The high price might also depend on whether they modify (by welding) the vertical trailer frame members for the window opening. That 30 inch window is pretty big, and the frame has to be cut or modified to put it in. The vertical frame members are normally on 16" centers.

Some of these cheaper guys might be just cutting the frame 'studs' and bracing the cut piece with a wooden 'header'...you should ask in the email whether they do that. If you order it from the factory with the large window, the frame will be built around it properly.

Another option is to install a couple of smaller vertical windows (about 15") side by side that can be installed BETWEEN the frame 'studs'...these look pretty good too.

You can get those windows in a vertical slider style too.

Unless you, yourself, want to build up some kind of subframe for a 30" window, I would not recommend you do that...so either install 2 smaller windows yourself, or let the pros do the one, bigger window.

Or so it seems to me.
 
tx2sturgis said:
Unless you, yourself, want to build up some kind of subframe for a 30" window, I would not recommend you do that...so either install 2 smaller windows yourself, or let the pros do the one, bigger window.

How difficult is it to install the windows?   [And where does one get them from? (Never mind. Quick Google search answered that question.)]
 
I have bought all of my windows from DKhardware.com and ebay. I've installed 6 windows so far: Three in the van, two in the trailer, and one, if you count this, in the back door of my house. Its not hard to do really, unless you don't have a helper.


Watch this video...he makes it work with plywood, like I did:



[video=youtube]
 
Also, when you get serious about ordering windows, you need to look to make sure they are tempered glass and made with radius corners (curved).

Don't use cheap residential plate glass windows with square corners!

And, some slider windows have 'weep' or drainage holes on the bottom only, those should only be used in the normal right-side-up configuration.

Some slider windows will have weep holes on 2 or 3 sides so you can use them either horizontally or vertically.
 
Yes. As it turned out I did a search before I read this and found that video. It's a pretty good video. Question: does cutting the support beams and putting a frame in make it much more structurally sound? So if I wanted to do larger windows, I could do that and not muck with the integrity of the trailer?
 
How about jalousie windows? You can see them on CL sometimes removed from salvaged RVs. In the winter add plexiglass storms on the inside.
 
mothercoder said:
Yes.  As it turned out I did a search before I read this and found that video.  It's a pretty good video.  Question:  does cutting the support beams and putting a frame in make it much more structurally sound?  So if I wanted to do larger windows, I could do that and not muck with the integrity of the trailer?

The way he did is Ok for smaller windows, but there can still be flex in the frame that way.

He is relying on the vertical load on the window to replace the vertical load that the previous ribs contributed.

But, there is still outward/inward flex when rolling down the road as wind currents from the towing vehicle and frame flex during road travel that will move that wall in and out.

I was not willing to cut those ribs on mine, so the wooden frame I added INCREASED the integrity of the wall. My windows are a lot smaller as a result of my decision.

Just keep in mind if the frame is not beefed up with welded metal framing around the window, then the liability becomes yours.

It might be fine for 50,000 miles of towing, or it might flex and break the glass or separate from the existing ribs in 50 miles.

The risk is ALL yours at that point.

I presume the manufacturer of the trailer will tell you the same thing. Call them and find out.
 
I would make detailed drawings of exactly what I wanted for doors, windows, electric etc, and find makers that do that sort of custom work. If doing the electric just get outside skin, braced if needed.

Or just get the barest skeleton cheap and get the framing work and the rest done myself.
 
eDJ_ said:
I saw this project recently and thought I'd mention it here.

It was a home built Cargo Trailer based on a Harbor Freight trailer kit.

1720 LB capacity trailer kit.

http://www.harborfreight.com/1720-lb-capacity-48-in-x-96-in-super-duty-folding-trailer-62671.html







I could see using pressure treated lumber and ply wood on the bottom, and build up from there. 

I would imagine a resourceful person could put something like this together for under $1000 dollars using some recycled materials.   Then have something that would serve their needs dependably. 
I own a homemade trailer built on a harborfreight frame. Now, I don't have the folding frame, but a rigid one but I fully believe that 1720 lb capacity is a very generous guideline.  Every trip I take in it is a new tire, sometimes 2.  And, you can't replace just the tire, you have to replace the rim as well ($90.00 each at Walmart).   It gets expensive to go anywhere.  And there is nothing in the trailer other than a bed and camping odds and ends.  Harbor Fright is just not worth it.
 
GypsySpirit said:
Every trip I take in it is a new tire, sometimes 2. 

{snip}

Harbor Fright is just not worth it.

Sounds like the trailer needs an alignment which is fairly easy to do.


lol...Harbor FRIGHT.... :D
 
tx2sturgis said:
Sounds like the trailer needs an alignment which is fairly easy to do.


lol...Harbor FRIGHT.... :D

I seriously considered rebuilding the whole thing but seriously, they are just not designed for this kind of use.  I live in it for 2 weeks every year.  On the bright side, it gave me a very good idea of what I want and don't want.   And yes, Harbor Fright is a fitting name.  LOL
 
Yep...

Well just in case you haven't looked under the trailer, I'm sure the axle can be shifted a bit to improve the alignment.

It might involve a bit of cutting and/or grinding but normally they can be adjusted.
 
GypsySpirit said:
   And yes, Harbor Fright is a fitting name.  LOL
People I know call that store "Chinese Junk." I'm not talking about the sailing boats either, which coincidentally are reputed to be well built? :p
 
tx2sturgis:

I wished I'd watched that video before I mangled the crap out of the wall of my cargo trailer.  Is that you and your lady doing that? 

It's pretty good.  Thanks!

Pat
 
pnolans said:
I wished I'd watched that video before I mangled the crap out of the wall of my cargo trailer.  Is that you and your lady doing that? 

It's pretty good.  Thanks!

Oh HELL NO! But the little girl is kinda cute huh? :D

Again, very bluntly:

I will not cut or otherwise weaken the side of MY trailer by cutting the ribs or uprights, UNLESS they can be welded to steel horizontal headers (or stringers) that 'frame' the window cutout. In post #125 I may have confused the readers. I used plywood to frame my windows but I DID NOT cut the ribs. Please read my post #132.

I posted that video as information, so that mothercoder could see how it looks behind the interior paneling. The video is NOT a recommendation by me. Those vertical ribs provide vertical support but also lateral support.

If the skin was not on that trailer, I could walk up to that framed-in window and push it in and all the severed metal ribs would bend and the wood would break. It would not take much pressure to do it.

In my opinion, he did it wrong. But youtube is FULL of good and bad information.

Let me put it this way, if you saw a trailer factory doing that, would YOU buy the trailer?

I wouldn't.

:cool:
 
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