Cargo Trailer Fasteners

[skyl4rk]

I have a "new to me" cargo trailer and would like to add insulation and fasten things to the walls. There is thin plywood there now but I am not sure what is behind it, I believe 1" square tube, probably aluminum. I plan to fill the gap with 1" foam, assuming it is what I think it is. Then replace the plywood and cover it with 2" foam.

For insulation, I can probably just screw it to the plywood.

For things that need strong attachments, I am assuming that I need to screw them to the 1" tubing. I am going to put a 2" piece of pine (cut from a 2x4) near the top of the wall to hang backpacks and other stuff. I also want a place to install tiedowns on the wall maybe 6" above the floor. Then between these wood pieces, I will install 2" insulation.

What kind of screws work best to attach things to the 1" square tube? Do you need to predrill the square tube?

 

[akrvbob]

skyl4rk, that sounds like a very good plan. I used self-tapping sheet metal screws for anything I needed to screw into the ribs. I prefer the ones with hex heads so you can use a nut driver instead of Philips head. They drive much easier!

With self-tapping you don't need to pre-drill, very easy!!
Bob

 

[skyl4rk]

Thanks

 

[highdesertranger]

if the screws are going into aluminum it's best to use stainless hardware. well actually it's best to use titanium but the cost is prohibitive. if you use steel there will be a reaction between the two metals and will corrode. actually stainless will do this also but much slower. highdsertranger

 

[Bdog1]

E Track may be a good tie down option. Spreads out the load.

 

[Patrick46]

E-Track x 2! ^^^

 

[Canine]

E-Track is super-duper strong. I use it every day to strap down loads that weight thousands of pounds and it won't give. This is riveted to aluminum Z channel. You may have a square tubing or something else, but it will still work great.

 

[skyl4rk]

I assume you would screw Etrack to the aluminum square tube? It would then leave an area uninsulated (?).

The things that I will be tying down are a battery box with one marine deep discharge battery, two or three 5 gallon water jugs, trash pail/litter toilet, some bins with clothes and food in them, folding table, folding chairs and tool boxes. A 2x2 with D-ring tie downs should handle that.

I found some self drilling screws at the hardware store today. Not in the length that I wanted (2-1/2"). But I can reduce the width of the wood to fit the screws that I can find.

 

[Canine]

I don't see why you couldn't plant a screw through your paneling and insulation to the framing to attach the E-Track. E-Track is overkill, but it doesn't take a lot of space and gives you flexibility. You can cut the E-Track to whatever length you want. You can even buy "singles" instead of a 5 foot strip. It isn't expensive. There's all sorts of tie down systems with some being quite expensive. You can recess the E-Track to fit into a groove you make in the floor or wall. If you don't want to use ratchet straps, you can hook a single D-ring to it and have the flexibility to move that D-ring to any point along the track. With a stand-alone D-ring, it is where it is. Some D-rings are recessed to be flush with the floor, which could be a big benefit. They also make load bars that fit into the E-track if that is something that appeals to you. Many load bars are simple friction fit which do not require any sort of track.

If you do use self tapping, but you accidentally strip one out, you could always resort to an anchor screw, which is a good backup.

I am super finicky about thermal breaks in my insulation, so I am going to attempt adhesives to attach my cabinets, etc. on interior paneling that is about 1/2 inch thick. I may just glue E-Track on the paneling- very tempting.