Camper Van or Real Class B?

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HeadinWest, what I meant by asking what you saw yourself doing was: How do you see yourself living, day to day?

A good place to start is: How do you like to live, now? You aren't going to suddenly going to morph into a different person because you change your abode. How much space do you need for stuff you want to keep? If you will be working, do you really want to be breaking down your bed every day before you can get ready? Do you make you bed every morning NOW? Do you want to have to trudge to the campground facilities in the morning chill everyday to use the showers and toilet, or do you want to be able to do that in your home?

Do you go out to eat, now, or do you cook? What hobbies and equipment do you need space for? Do you like TV? Books? Internet? You are still going to be who you are when you change your living quarters, so you want to make choices based on you and not someone else.

If you are going to be working, you won't be moving around a lot. You will also not be restricted in ways you might be if you had no money coming in. So, how you prefer to live? DH has to have more living space and stuff than I do, but I need to have more people and access to town amenities than he does. You have to know yourself pretty well because that's who you will be living with.
 
Dear OP,

How long will you do it? How will you do it? Its depend on time and convinience. But remember that Class B have been built with living in mind - this includes insulation. How are you going to take a bath? Will you use a porta potty? How do you cook?

I'm not in your shoe, but if I were in your situation, I goes with Roadtrek Class B. Then I spent the time making money / improving myself than to spend the time reinvent the wheel (rebuilding a campervan).

But it really depends on you. I'm sure for a weekend surf rider that put a bed and porta potty into a cargo van is enough. But if you plan to live in it long term, including in cold season, then you need to think this throughtly.
 
fablefox,

Class B sure would be nice but the prices are insane for a 15+ yr old vehicle.
I do plan on long-term, minimum 1 year even after finding work. With the prices of housing and/or renting the goal is to save money.

jeanontheroad,

Good points, I've been trying to imagine how I would spend my time without driving from place to place every day. Need to find some kind of routine if I'm staying in one general area for a long period of time. Guitar, laptop, that's about it lol. Maybe I'll make some videos about the transition from sticks/bricks to life on the road just for something to do.

Off Grid 24/7,

The camper van was just too small, if it was just a few feet longer with a different layout it would have been a possibility. I can deal with the roadtrek bed and chair that swivels around, and enough storage for clothes, tools, food, etc...

I've heard that there are steering issues with the Dodge chassis on 1998? - 2005? roadtreks. Should I just stay away from any of these? I'm interested in one for sale that falls into that problem year range. He said that the lower ball joints were replaced and that helped but he did say the steering was a little loose at high speeds and it sways a bit more than he'd like. Second owner and has only had it for a year or so. It's a 5 hour drive from here(one way) to take it for a test drive. I've only driven one class B so far and it was not a roadtrek and had front end issues also.

How well should a class B handle at highway speeds?
 
HeadinWest said:
I've heard that there are steering issues with the Dodge chassis on 1998? - 2005? roadtreks. Should I just stay away from any of these? I'm interested in one for sale that falls into that problem year range. He said that the lower ball joints were replaced and that helped but he did say the steering was a little loose at high speeds and it sways a bit more than he'd like. Second owner and has only had it for a year or so. It's a 5 hour drive from here(one way) to take it for a test drive. I've only driven one class B so far and it was not a roadtrek and had front end issues also.

How well should a class B handle at highway speeds?

I've never heard of any such issues...altho I'm not a big fan of these rigs. I've got a good friend who owns onna the Dodge Roadtreks, and he absolutely loves his!

remember...the Roadtreks are just body coversions dropped onto a 1-ton Dodge chassis, and these chassis were in TONS of rigs...Class B & C motorhomes, ambulances, fire apparatus, towtrucks, and utility service trucks. If a front end is loose, then it's just a matter of repairing it...no biggie.

Should it handle highway speeds??? I would certaintly think so!

Maybe your friend has a motorcycle mounted to his rear bumper, or is carrying some extra weight...this will definately affect the handling.

also, some people don't consider that they're driving a big vehicle, and think these things should handle like a car.

..............................SORRY...not gonna happen!!!
 
I cast my vote for an older Roadtrek. Of course, I'm partial. :-}

With the older RT there would be very little, or no, DIY. And yes even older models cost more than you'd think, but that tells you that they hold their values. If you try this lifestyle out and decide it's not for you, you're looking at an easy resale.

Comfort is important to me and the class Bs offer that. Another poster made a very good point about insulation too.

Don't be too sure you'll need solar with a Class B. Driving or running the genny will recharge your batteries just fine. Sometimes I wish I had solar, but not often enough for the $ outlay yet. At least wait and see what your lifestyle requires.

Good luck - there's a lot to consider.
 
The steering on any van should be tight and responsive, and going lock to lock with the wheel both at dead stop and creeping speed should produce no clunks or clanks.


I'm not really sold on Roadtreks or any of the other fancier Class B's, as I see the same ones for sale month after month and nobodies buying them. The only ones I see selling are $5k & under.
 
HeadinWest said:
fablefox,

Class B sure would be nice but the prices are insane for a 15+ yr old vehicle.
I do plan on long-term, minimum 1 year even after finding work. With the prices of housing and/or renting the goal is to save money.

Well, if you think your time is worthy on doing the van upgrades yourself, you may go that route. Just remember that at its price, Class B already went through a factory setting (read: buying thing at bulk and done in an assembly setting by professional). if you think you can go cheaper, its your choiche.

My plan was (in the future) if I can't afford a class b, I'd go truck camper route. beggars are not choosers and all.

While I'd admit some van dwellers have the skill (and cash) and their creation shows, some are in a 'sad state' that I felt pity, in a way. I saw a video about a guy who lives in a normal van, sleep on the chair put in flat, uses porta potty and cook on a camper (as in camping) propane burner. no way of bathing other than truck stops, gym, etc and sometimes he just wipe himself clean.

anyway, a tip given by bugoutvehicle is that do not buy used class b via dealiership if you have the skill to check stuff. you can get it cheaper if you search the net. specially from willing seller that really need cash.
 
Yes, their was a series of Roadtreks on the Dodge body that were notorious for wandering front ends. I don't think I would let it be a deal breaker.

If you have the time, just wait and look for a good deal on a class B, it sounds ideal for you!
Bob
 
akrvbob said:
Yes, their was a series of Roadtreks on the Dodge body that were notorious for wandering front ends. I don't think I would let it be a deal breaker.

If you have the time, just wait and look for a good deal on a class B, it sounds ideal for you!
Bob

All that is left on my front end. (91 B250) is the steering box. I had to replace the ball joints ($130 Moog parts) and some bushings and one ball joint. (another $40) Doing the work myself saved more than $400. A rebuilt steering box from Rockauto is about $80. A professional replacement would cost about $150, labor and alignment.

IMHO, the early 90's Dodge Ram Vans are a quality product that should not be discounted at all. After more than 6 months of wrenching on the basket case I picked up for $500, I feel that I have a quality product that will give me at least 200,000 miles with little trouble. I was lucky to find one with a fresh factory crate motor and trany to work on.

Everything else needed replacing after 23 years of hard use. As with any vehicle, service should not be ignored.
 
Something to consider about older vehicles (pre-1980 I think) is they pre-date fuel injection and OBD. Finding a mechanic who can diagnose an engine issue without the computer telling them where to look might be a problem. Also fiddling with a carburetor when you change altitude might be a pain in the ass. (My Class B is fuel-injected but my generator is not. I didn't use my genny my entire stay in Colorado because I didn't want to mess with the carb on the genny).

That being said, I'd choose an option that allowed for more money to be spent on fuel, upgrades and repairs.
 
I am accustomed to fiddling with carbs, being an 'old school' shade tree mechanic back in my younger days of hot rodding muscle cars, and still having a carbed motorcycle. They are a bit clunky and less fuel efficient, but I can generally jerry-rig it to get me home. When electronic systems fail, they are DEAD.
My '86 E150 has the carb, and though it does have electronic ignition, I can live with that (or maybe retro-fit it to P&C system later). Though we can't get our P&C kits at K-mart or Wally World any more...... ;-)
Being an old ex-navy 'twidget' (electronic tech) I take to heart what my old Seadaddy, Seniorchief Normandin told me.... "ALL electronics will fail at the worst possible time!" Experience has proven the crusty old shellback true time and again.
 
akrvbob said:
Yes, their was a series of Roadtreks on the Dodge body that were notorious for wandering front ends. I don't think I would let it be a deal breaker.

If you have the time, just wait and look for a good deal on a class B, it sounds ideal for you!
Bob

I believe the problem with those chassis were the steering couplers. Can't get them as new replacements anymore, just what you can find in the junk yards.
 
Fablefox, I have to agree with you about the "sad state" of some vans whose owners who grossly underestimate the time, money and skill level necessary to reach their conversion goals. I have seen a few high-quality, well crafted,, well designed units. I have seen even more poorly thought out, poorly executed, squalid units that bear no resemblance whatsoever to what their owners had hoped to achieve. Money and time wasted, dreams frustrated. Were I looking at this choice, I would try to be honest with myself about time, cost, skill level, mechanical and electrical knowledge, and what amenities I really need to live my version of a good life.
 
I just don't want to get one with the Dreaded Death Wobble

From what I can find out it might start at any mileage on certain Dodge chassis and it is hard/expensive to get rid of. I'd hate for this to happen in the mountains.

Anyone know of this happening on any Roadtreks?


Here's another video after trying to fix the problem.

Death Wobble
 
There is a lot of info on this issue on the RV.net forums. I used to read it and that's why I know anything at all about it. They have a Class B forum and I know it has been talked about a lot!!

Do a search there and you should find everything you need.
Bob
 
the death wobble can happen to any vehicle. though some are more prone to it than others. that ram truck in the vid is a strait axle 4x4 it appears to be out of alignment in the first and last part of the video. that 5 link suspension that dodge uses is not my favorite. allot of bushings to wear and get loose. that truck defiantly has front end problems, but any vehicle with worn front end parts can get the death wobble. about the road trek I really don't know anything this model. my friends mom had a dodge camper van conversion I believe it was an 80's model. she said the steering was loose and it had a clunk, would I take a look. I did, this was a unibody van when I crawled under I discovered where the idler arm and steering box mounted to the sub frame/unibody it had cracked almost beyond repair in fact the idler arm bolts were pulled almost all the way though the frame channel and was ready to fall off. I am not really a big fan of dodges. I have several more dodge stories but they really don't apply to this thread. I will say this though dodge put a great diesel engine in their trucks with the cummins but it ends there. highdesertranger
 
Greetings,
I'm a bit late to this thread but by my read it appears you've not made a purchase so i'll add my two-bits.

First a silly note... i'm an electronic musician and sold all my hardware (many, many keyboards! i looked like a mini Keith Emerson on stage with all my gear)...anywhoo i downsized all to an iPad Air and i LOVE IT!! I wouldn't go back to packing and caring for all that gear for anything. Sooooo....my point... you could simply buy something like the VOX amPlug (~$20, & battery operated) and plug your eGuitar into that and some earbuds or headphones...no amp needed.

OK, sooo on the van/rv...

1) It is quite possible to build as you go down the road. I did it when living full time in a Chevy 12ft box van. Very nice lifestyle and could park just about anywhere there were other trucks without any bother. Cheap to find. Mine was plain white on the outside with no windows, just a nice skylight/roofvent and passthrough to cab.

1b) It is possible as others have noted to keep a rig very simple and not be bound to either solar or even generators...just charging the house battery with the rig going down the road. That is how our current nicely appointed van conversion is and we can cook/eat/shower/poop/sleep all in full height headroom without solar or gen set. Go into town after ~5 days and resupply/food/ice/laundry...batteries back to full and hit the road again.

2) I'm one of those guys that buys new and someone else down the road gets to reap the benefits from buying my second hand well maintained rig. And yes my wife and i are in the Van-Two-Research phase and plan on purchasing a new van for a second (and final?) RV. V2 will be used during our retirement for full time living once we jettison the job(s) in a few years. Right now we're still enjoying the creativity/interaction at the workplace and go out about one week in every six to some off road place in the Pacific Northwest.

3) Myself? We will ditch the ties to RV parks (right now we are at a golf resort on the oregon coast in our full time 5th wheel while working on the coast.)...BUT...stealth and roaming the open byways is more our style.

...best wishes on your decision and the adventure!
Thom
 
Accrete,

I was just looking at these amps, mini amps that run on 9v batteries. I don't really like using batteries for pedals or an amp so I'm going to build my own power supply for my 3 pedals and the 9v amp if I get one. I can get 4 7809 regulators and some caps for less than 10 bucks, throw it together in a little box with the correct jacks and I should be all set. Should draw very little current when connected directly to the house battery. I have to look at the pedals and see what the current draw is, I might be able to get away with only 2 regulators, 1 for the pedals and 1 for the amp. I have a power supply now for the pedals but it uses 120v source. This will be my first customization to the RV!

I'm also wondering how well my guitar is going to hold up in the RV considering the temperature variations, typically not good for a guitar but I'll find out very soon. If all goes as planned I'll be on the road in a few weeks.

Mini Guitar Amps

The guitar is my one and only "luxury item" so I'll make room for the small amp.

2.) I haven't bought a used vehicle since the 80s. Stressful to say the least, especially with the price of class Bs. I am getting close to a purchase.
 
Your electronic DIY project sounds like a winner. I have one of those marshall micro amps...pretty cute... I put my harmonica pickup/effects through it sometimes just foolin' around when not on the iPad for music doodling.

I hear you on the pondering of guitar/wood being suitable for long term life in an RV environment. I had a hammer dulcimer for a while just before moving full time into our 5th wheel and even in our home i had to watch/care for it closely due to high humidity here in the pacific northwest. I know in concept having a guitar onboard is doable, there is an iPad music comp fellow that lives full time in a sailboat on the So.Cal coast and he has a collection of acoustic and electric guitars...and the humidity on the water has got to be of some concern(?).

Thom
 

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