Building A Propane System

[VanSkulk]

I'm ready to put together my propane system.

I plan to use a 20lb tank to supply a stove, water heater and a cabin heater. I would like to provide for future expansion in case I either add a fourth device that runs on propane or an additional tank. Sort of like this.


I found a pretty good guide online for fittings, but fittings are super confusing none-the-less.

I tried to look online for a manifold sort of like this

, but there doesn't seem to be a lot options there. Otherwise it seems like everyone is just assembling there own manifold out of fittings sort of like this.


I'm curious to know what others have done.

 

[bullfrog !]

The more fittings the more likely you are to get leaks after vibrating down the road, just saying. I just did a Goggle Search and found a 4 valve with an inlet and a plug on the ends so you could get up to 5 outlets but I would definitely add a drop tube to collect trash in the line just before the manifold and any rubber lines would be the more expensive Teflon tube inner core as many RV appliances use very small orifices which clog up easily.

 

[VanSkulk]

I don't suppose you have a link for that?
Was it 1/4" NPT or 3/8" NPT or something else?
Apparently 1/4" is used for the high side and 3/8" is used for the low side. I was able to find one on AMZ, but it was 1/4" and that is apparently not standard practice.

 

[bullfrog !]

It came with 5/16” barb and was around $45 at labelpeelers.com after Google searching “propane manifold”

 

[maki2]

The keyword are indeed propane manifold. That will allow you to customize your setup for future expansion.

 

[VanSkulk]

The only time I've seen barbed propane fittings was in science class in high school. Is that something you have used Bullfrog?

I need to do some more homework on this. I was under the impression that I would need 3/8" NPT ports on the manifold, but such a think does not seem to exist.

Thanks for joining in Maki2, your input is always welcome.

I'll be back.

 

[bullfrog !]

I have used them but only in well ventilated easy to access and check locations with high quality clamps. Most RV systems I have dealt with have securely mounted appliances fed directly from copper pipe strapped with rubber lined steel straps screwed into the wooden structure fed from a larger gas pipe that runs along and is secured to the frame fed by a heavy duty rubber hose from the regulator that allows for movement and removing/installing the propane tank which screws into the propane tank stored in an externally vented compartment. If you are going to have that many propane appliances you will probably need multiple tanks, plus smaller tanks are easier to handle.

 

[VanSkulk]

Thanks Bullfrog. Also, what is a drop tube?

 

[bullfrog !]

A simple tee fitting with a 4” or longer nipple in a horizontal supply line pointed down with a cap so you can trap debris and water using gravity, usually just before an appliance to insure nothing bad gets in the appliance. Buddy heater’s manual used to have a good illustration for permanent installs.

 

[abnorm]

I found a pretty good guide online for fittings, but fittings are super confusing none-the-less.

That's a pretty clear article describing the various fittings for HOSES that are available.........the standard RV distribution is FLARED COPPER TUBING

RV appliances are designed to plumb/stay in place.........Have one regulator at the supply bottle...............

Camping appliances can use rubber hoses......Each appliance has it's own regulator....

(Ever wonder Where/Why/WhatHappened to the rubber hose on the Coleman stove?..........The hose allowed the one-pound Greenie to fall over inviting Liquid Propane to enter the stove.........The copper pipe prevents the bottle from ever laying flat)

RV Pit Stop in Quartzsite can make any Hose you desire......using a Quality hose and Barbed fittings....BUT they finish with the approved crimp........one that captures the end of the hose....."While-you-wait"

 

[sithigh]

Thanks Bullfrog. Also, what is a drop tube?

I have also heard it called a sediment trap and it is always fitted with a removable cap.

 

[maki2]

There are quick disconnect fittings. They do add those into the copper tubing runs on RVs for things such as putting one in an outside compartment for a BBQ or gas fire pit that gets temporarily connected to the mothership with a rubber hose supply line.

I have not done copper tube with flared gas lines. But did a flared copper tube for an ice maker. Also I have used the small spring tube benders to make bends before. A bit touchy work but not all that bad to do if you have some natural patience for doing fiddly bits.

 

[maki2]

For your project as a resource contact this company that does online sales of LP gas components for RVs. They should be able to line you up with all the fittings, valves and manifold you need. Disclaimer I have not used them, I just found them with a keyword search. But they have the basic components that go beyond the world of rubber hoses and into permanent interior installations. They will be able to give you expert guidance as to what fittings could work.
https://www.rvupgradestore.com/MB-Sturgis-402315-5-Way-Fuel-Distribution-Manifold-p/15-2097.htm

 

[VanSkulk]

I'm thinking about using Stainless Steal Tubing


Anybody have any thoughts about that?

 

[tx2sturgis]

For DIY camper builds, using portable DOT tanks, I prefer a simple, one-tank-per-appliance setup.

That means more tanks (or bottles) on the vehicle, more overall capacity, and each tank (or bottle) can be sized for each appliance, and if one runs out it's easy to swap in another one.

No messing around with manifolds or copper lines, no possible leaks from fittings that are deep inside a cabinet, under the frame, or behind a wall, and components are easily changed, replaced, downsized, or upsized as needed.

And whichever way you proceed, don't forget the LP detector(s).

 

[wayne49]

K.I.S.S.

More connections mean more possible points of failure.

RV's have only one shut off valve for the entire system. All or None.

Local propane suppliers, such as Suburban or AmeriGas, will install proper propane fittings.

 

[maki2]

I'm thinking about using Stainless Steal Tubing

View attachment 33889
Anybody have any thoughts about that?

Stainless steel tubing is mesh with a rubber cover. No real huge advantage to it. The gas still gets in contact with the rubber as the mesh is of course not solid, just lots of small wires with space between.

 

[maki2]

Maybe this YouTube video will help you understand how to do a basic propane install of a few basic propane appliances. Right now you are overthinking issues and the techniques that were solved a long time ago in the RV industry. You just need to see it being done or look at some pro built RVs and quit trying to figure it out by looking at stuff for sale that you are not familiar with. KISS also means find good examples to follow and stop trying to figure it all out. This is a safety first issue, do not try to be creative or inventive. Just use what is time tested.

 

[tx2sturgis]

Thanks for that video Maki, the guy knows his stuff.

 

[VanSkulk]

I’ve learned some things:

NPT and MIP/FIP are the same thing. Not knowing that is what was making me think manifolds were hard to find. I’m pretty sure I learned that a long time ago, but a lot of things don’t stick.

Corrugated Stainless Steel Tubing keeps the gas sealed inside. The jacket is just extra protection.

Nearly all fittings and tubing are rated to be on the low-pressure side of the regulator only. So, the regulator needs to be the first thing coming out of the tank.

I’ve decided to go ahead with the stainless steel. It minimizes connections, simplifies installation and does not add contaminants.

I very much appreciate everyone’s contributions to this thread. It helps a lot to bounce ideas off others when I’m overthinking an installation