Box van and step van conversion only

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mjbarton74

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I am super new to all of this van life stuff.
I have been building a van in my head for 20 years now and I have come to the conclusion I want box, or step van only.
I live in Las Vegas and own a small air conditioning business and want to live and work out of a van with my dog.
I am looking for builders and also possibly something done or an abandoned project.
GUIDE ME OH SWEET VAN LIFE PEOPLE!!!!!!!
 
Do it! Good luck! Both are great options for a build with their straight, flat walls.

Box van pros:
Quieter than step van
More common parts
Comfortable to drive

Box van cons:
Cab body is steel, will rust
Could be quite the leap to get into the rear
Most all are roll up doors
Many have fiberglass roofs

Step van pros:
All aluminum, won't rust
Easier to work on
Easy to get in and out of
Built to last forever

Step van cons:
Louder than loud
You will need to love the ride
While drivetrain/chassis parts are easy, special body parts can be hard to find
Many have fiberglass roofs
 
Do it! Good luck! Both are great options for a build with their straight, flat walls.

Box van pros:
Quieter than step van
More common parts
Comfortable to drive

Box van cons:
Cab body is steel, will rust
Could be quite the leap to get into the rear
Most all are roll up doors
Many have fiberglass roofs

Step van pros:
All aluminum, won't rust
Easier to work on
Easy to get in and out of
Built to last forever

Step van cons:
Louder than loud
You will need to love the ride
While drivetrain/chassis parts are easy, special body parts can be hard to find
Many have fiberglass roofs
I have been dreaming of this my whole life. I'm not worried about noise.
I need to find a good website to find them. Got any good sites to look at?
 
There a few good groups on Facebook that people are always posting and selling on. Probably a good bet if you're looking to do a private sale. Any trucking dealership selling any are going to want lots of money in the current terrible market.
 
I’m new too and just got a step van p42. I imagine in Vegas you have access to a lot of stock, or at least not a far drive.

It just my dog and me as well … or if one of my college kids wants to road trip for a bit. I wanted a passway though from cab to cargo for several reasons … as a single woman I want to be able to go from bed to drivers seat without going outside, it would be better for my dog, and taking down the bulkhead gives me more space.

I found some box trucks that had them, but there are a lot that can easily be modified for one. I found some with a back and side door to cargo and then I found some with all three. I guess it depends if you are keeping your shop area separate from living. Like back access for garage and not an entry. I think some people want cab and box separate as it helps with insulation, esp in hot areas when the cab can get hot and they want AC. (And I just remembered you are a HVAC guy … oops)

I watched a lot of videos on YouTube, but for me it came down to what was on the market in my price range and with solid mechanical. I could modify or learn to live with other parts that weren’t ideal, but my money went towards mechanical… I can always continue the build part later as I go if I exceed my budget.

So it was mechanical and length that ended up being my limiters. My must have list started getting chopped down as I started looking. I first was dead set on diesel but I’m happy with gas for other reasons. I wanted a MT45 but love my P42. I found a solid diesel MT45 back up camera, 2014 AC, diesel heater, … thought it was perfect except it was only 14’. After taping it out in my living room and “playing house” for a bit in it as well as figuring the cubic area lost, I decided I needed at least a 16’ as I will be living in it, only residence… not just a camper, or summer thing, but no physical address type thing. Ill often be traveling in colder areas, so not being able to expand a camp outside all the time, I want the interior to be comfortable. 2 feet of length made a difference for me.

Idk if you are looking to have a small trailer in which your work gear would be stowed and towed. I’m not sure how comfortable I’ll be in parking lots with my 16’ cargo. 14’ much easier to park… but you’re probably much more skilled than I am.

I look forward to seeing your adventure into this as I’ll be doing the same and learn lots from reading others posts.
 
Nevada is not RV DIY friendly. It is a pain converting from a commercial title to RV, and even if you do, insurance becomes a problem.
 
I am super new to all of this van life stuff.
I have been building a van in my head for 20 years now and I have come to the conclusion I want box, or step van only.
I live in Las Vegas and own a small air conditioning business and want to live and work out of a van with my dog.
I am looking for builders and also possibly something done or an abandoned project.
GUIDE ME OH SWEET VAN LIFE PEOPLE!!!!!!!
.
2003, we converted a 1996 Ford CF8000 commercial truck to our concept of an ExpeditionVehicle.
Three axle, tandem rears, GVWR of someplace around 58,000#.
The original box was an 8.5w x 8h x 24 long reefer, a montrous cavern screaming to be filled with multiple tons of nincompoopery.
.
After a few months, we swapped that beast of a box for a little cutie-pie, 7w x 7h x 12 long.
.
With the living envelope shortened by half, we dropped an axle (one of the rears, we are fast learners).
We retained enough rear frame for:
* a rear entry, and
* a porch with roof, and
* a hitch area (initially a fifth-wheel, changed a couple-three years ago to a gooseneck ball).
.
Why a rear entry?
Besides the utility of the elevated porch as a combination mud-room slash lounge slash kitchen slash shower slash throne, all protected by the roof?
We prefer the visual and visceral openness of the interior view from the doorway.
.
Compare our long interior view to a RecreateVehicle side entry.
a)
For a floor as high as ours, over-landers and RecreateVehicles require steps or ladders.
While not in use, do those occupy scarce space?
That is the way I see it.
.
b)
At the doorway, all I see is the opposite wall.
If that wall intrudes into the aisle with cabinets and built-ins, my eye-line terminates a few inches from my nose.
For me, this's unpleasant.
.
Maybe I am weird.
I like going straight in, rather than one step, pivot left for groceries, pivot right for laundry... like some kind of partnerless square-dancing.
And if my hands are occupied with groceries or laundry, tottering up steps could lead to a nasty spill.
The wrong kind of nasty.
.
With our rear entry, we use the existing structure -- wheel, tire, mud-flap hanger -- to monkey-bars up onto the porch ('monkey-bars' is a verb).
With groceries or laundry, we walk to the rig on flat ground, nice and stable and civilized.
We set the load on the flat stable porch deck, then monkey-bars right up.
We emplace our goods in the rig piece-meal, one at a time, civilized... instead of dropping the entire load on the bed or dinette as is standard for a RecreateVehicle.
.
I am a semi-retired welder-fabricator, so we immediately ditched the roll-down cargo-box door in favor of a steel wall with a steel door.
The door is two parts, split horizontally at the top eight inches to form a Dutch door, handy for secure ventilation, bringing in light... or hollering "Get off my lawn!".
.
We boondock exclusively.
Never been inclined to stay in a RecreateVehicles resort, thank you anyway.
Our favorite spots are in the back-country, miles from noplace with nobody around.
.
Some boondockers need a spot with a good cellular telephone signal.
We hear tell of cellular telephone signal boosters and other technology marvels.
Fact is, we seek places without a cellular telephone signal.
Weird, eh?
.
Our prior conversions included curve-wall patience-tryers, busses and vans.
We never got the hang of perfect matches, our interior to the curve walls.
Looking back, I think we saw those rigs as temporary, so some gaps were fine.
.
Our ExpeditionVehicle has square walls, square ceiling and roof, and as I discovered building the rear wall and door, the heavy steel frame -- engineered to support the roll-down cargo-box door -- is massively over-built for our use.
It would probably function as a safety roll-bar if we decided to go inverted.
[ExpeditionVehicle laughs derisively at RecreateVehicle staples into particle-board.]
.
And my final point after nearly two decades full-time live-aboard:
* Doing it over, we would change nothing.
 
.
2003, we converted a 1996 Ford CF8000 commercial truck to our concept of an ExpeditionVehicle.
Three axle, tandem rears, GVWR of someplace around 58,000#.
The original box was an 8.5w x 8h x 24 long reefer, a montrous cavern screaming to be filled with multiple tons of nincompoopery.
.
After a few months, we swapped that beast of a box for a little cutie-pie, 7w x 7h x 12 long.
.
With the living envelope shortened by half, we dropped an axle (one of the rears, we are fast learners).
We retained enough rear frame for:
* a rear entry, and
* a porch with roof, and
* a hitch area (initially a fifth-wheel, changed a couple-three years ago to a gooseneck ball).
.
Why a rear entry?
Besides the utility of the elevated porch as a combination mud-room slash lounge slash kitchen slash shower slash throne, all protected by the roof?
We prefer the visual and visceral openness of the interior view from the doorway.
.
Compare our long interior view to a RecreateVehicle side entry.
a)
For a floor as high as ours, over-landers and RecreateVehicles require steps or ladders.
While not in use, do those occupy scarce space?
That is the way I see it.
.
b)
At the doorway, all I see is the opposite wall.
If that wall intrudes into the aisle with cabinets and built-ins, my eye-line terminates a few inches from my nose.
For me, this's unpleasant.
.
Maybe I am weird.
I like going straight in, rather than one step, pivot left for groceries, pivot right for laundry... like some kind of partnerless square-dancing.
And if my hands are occupied with groceries or laundry, tottering up steps could lead to a nasty spill.
The wrong kind of nasty.
.
With our rear entry, we use the existing structure -- wheel, tire, mud-flap hanger -- to monkey-bars up onto the porch ('monkey-bars' is a verb).
With groceries or laundry, we walk to the rig on flat ground, nice and stable and civilized.
We set the load on the flat stable porch deck, then monkey-bars right up.
We emplace our goods in the rig piece-meal, one at a time, civilized... instead of dropping the entire load on the bed or dinette as is standard for a RecreateVehicle.
.
I am a semi-retired welder-fabricator, so we immediately ditched the roll-down cargo-box door in favor of a steel wall with a steel door.
The door is two parts, split horizontally at the top eight inches to form a Dutch door, handy for secure ventilation, bringing in light... or hollering "Get off my lawn!".
.
We boondock exclusively.
Never been inclined to stay in a RecreateVehicles resort, thank you anyway.
Our favorite spots are in the back-country, miles from noplace with nobody around.
.
Some boondockers need a spot with a good cellular telephone signal.
We hear tell of cellular telephone signal boosters and other technology marvels.
Fact is, we seek places without a cellular telephone signal.
Weird, eh?
.
Our prior conversions included curve-wall patience-tryers, busses and vans.
We never got the hang of perfect matches, our interior to the curve walls.
Looking back, I think we saw those rigs as temporary, so some gaps were fine.
.
Our ExpeditionVehicle has square walls, square ceiling and roof, and as I discovered building the rear wall and door, the heavy steel frame -- engineered to support the roll-down cargo-box door -- is massively over-built for our use.
It would probably function as a safety roll-bar if we decided to go inverted.
[ExpeditionVehicle laughs derisively at RecreateVehicle staples into particle-board.]
.
And my final point after nearly two decades full-time live-aboard:
* Doing it over, we would change nothing.
I would love to see pictures of your rig. I’m a visual learner, with a very “fractured” inner eye that usually creates unearthly structures.
 
1996 Ford CF8000 commercial truck converted to ExpeditionVehicle.
Full-time live-aboard since 2003.
Box is three paces across by seven paces long.
In the driver-side snap, you can see the 140-gallon saddle-tank we added to supplement the factory 50-gallon.
.
In the background, you can glimpse the commercial chassis I converted to a toy-hauler.
.
Here, we are in our romantic glade on the organic farm near the outskirts of Eugene, Oregon.
 

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1996 ExpeditionVehicle:
Porch deck hinges for access to our ancient AGM bank on rails between the frames.
Porch roof is rigid... for reverse-bashing branches and, if needed, to follow in the footsteps of any twenty-story lizard on a stroll through Tokyo suburbs.
.
In the side views, you can see the hand-hold for monkey-barring (verb) onto the porch.
Maintaining three points of contact:
1 -- foot on lower rim of wheel
2 -- step other foot stop tire
3 -- side-step onto deck.
.
In one portrait, you can see the steel door with eight-inch Dutch door for secure ventilation, secure light, and hollering "Get off my lawn!".
.
Also, please note the standard-strength eye-bolts under the perimeter of the porch roof.
These are handy for hanging a sun-screen.
Or, I suppose they could be used for a shower-curtain for al fresco freshening-up... but, of course, I would not know anything about that sort of behavior...
 

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Where did you go overseas with it? How much did it cost to ship it and what did you need in order to drive it overseas? I’m sure it’s different these days, but just curious.
 
View onto the poop-deck of the toy-hauler.
I fabricated the hitch... rated at 24,000#.
Those safety chains are from a local-owned family-operated logger supply, rated at around 12,000# each.
.
We avoid acquiring fuel in high-tax regions.
The aux fuel tank is 120-gallons, supplementing the 190-gallons on the rig.
In theory, our range is Anchorage-to-Acapulco without re-fueling.
.
I tend to build with longevity in mind.
Disclaimer:
* this finished duo is the result of a half-century of fussing with partially-functional predecessors.
By no means is it appropriate for anybody else and their use.
.
 

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2003-4, we were happily stranded in Central America...
... while we waited a month on a cargo-ship to Caracas, Venezuela...
...a three-week voyage with plenty of time to drag a line for the catch-'o-the-day.
 
Moving on to our next rig, a crew-cab mid-engine fire-truck conversion.
Here, you see it after the apparatus is removed.
.
(I fabricated a heavy-duty trailer, mounted the pumper-n-tank on it for a logger up in the woods.
After the arsonists went wacko a couple summers ago, this type of equipment is life-saving.)
 

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An off-topic aside:
Starting in 1993, we converted a couple semi-trailers to full-time live-aboard.
The first was a retired 30' .mil we dragged to Baja for multiple winters.
That was the rig the surplus sales never furnished our title, but we managed to persevere irregardless.
.
Here is our latest, a 40' all-aluminum.
I removed the rancid warped swing-out doors, and fabricated a steel wall with a steel door.
.
For transport, the roof hinges down, and is secured with hitch-pins in the bases for the support struts.
The deck hinges up, and is secured the same way.
.
The original height was the standard 13' 6", much too tall for our use.
I lowered the roof by about 18", giving plenty of bridge-clearance for the photovoltaic.
As you might imagine, lowering the roof took most of the afternoon...
.
In some of our other snaps, you might notice it in the background...
...it is the one with 'BUDWEISER, king of brews' on the sides.
I do not agree with that sentiment, nor do I disagree.
 

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My wife and I have also found that a box 7’ tall by 7’ wide by 12’ long works pretty well for us when used for longer periods but still traveling. We use a 28’ older motorhome and a 25’ travel trailer for home bases and longer stays most of the time. We just recently got rid of our truck camper but kept the 10’ x 14’ tent we started out in years ago. Seems for us a floor space of somewhere between 80 square feet and 180 square feet works fine.
 
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... taking down the bulkhead gives me more space.

...some people want cab and box separate... it helps with insulation...I can always continue the build part later… thought it was perfect except it was only 14’...
.
a)
The bulkhead is a) engineered to protect the driver from flying bric-a-brac during manouveurs.
Removing the bulkhead offers the potential for more space between your ears.
The bulkhead is b) engineered to provide a modicum of structural integrity during a roll-over.
.
b)
Our ExpeditionVehicle interior is 7' wide by 12' long, plenty of cubic space for two adults and five Heelers.
.
c)
Plan on continuing your build later... ad infinitum.
The darn things demand constant evolution.
.
d)
Some folks install a shower-curtain rod behind the driver-seat -- wall-to-wall -- to hold a couple-three shower-curtains.
This restricts air-flow, keeping cooled/heated air up front as you drive.
This also restricts temperature exchange from your rear through the front windows.
.
.
Any objections you can imagine, somebody worked around them decades ago.
 
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