Box Trucks - The Good, The Bad, and The Ugly

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Vagabound

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Hi,

No, Clint Eastwood hasn't been spotted as a U-Haul vandweller (that I know of).

After reading a lot of info in here and elsewhere about box trucks and their conversions to RVs (for lack of a better name), it seemed to me that one thread to collect, condense, and hash out the pros and cons of converting a box truck would be very helpful to those who are contemplating such a project.  So, I'm hoping that this can be that thread.

I guess the format of the thread can develop as we go, but it might be nice to clearly label what you provide as a PRO or CON, if that applies.  It would also be really nice to collect some good examples of getting the most from a PRO, and good examples of overcoming a CON.  While firsthand experience is often the best, we might also get some benefit from posts like "My uncle's girlfriend's co-worker said ..." or "Doesn't that pokey thing get in the way?".  Someone else might be able to confirm or deny.

With that in mind, who's got something to contribute?

Vagabound
 
I'm sitting here at my newly built dinette / bed concoction thinking I should have bought high density foam for the cushions. Soft is OK for a seat but not so much when your trying to use them as your bed too. I did buy a new air mattress to fit a 32 x 75" space and it works fine but then I need to deflate and store.

Pro/Con. A 10' box van is space appropriate if properly downsized and dual-purpose everything that you would normally in a van.

My grandma made the best potato salad. Con, Never did get the recipe.
 
Mine is 16' box... wanted a 14' but glad now for the extra space. And 18' would just be too big ;)
 
BradKW said:
Mine is 16' box... wanted a 14' but glad now for the extra space. And 18' would just be too big ;)

Con:  Anything shorter than 16ft. doesn't seem, based on what I've seen, to have a ceiling height tall enough to stand in ... if you're 6ft+; nor a width great enough to sleep crossways.  People seem crazy for the 10ft U-Haul, but I have no idea why, except the convenient space between the two front bucket seats to cut a pass-through.  Other than that, it seem too small for almost everything.  I'm sure that Matlock will give us the opposing perspective. ;-)

Solution:  Check the size of the box very carefully before purchasing.

Vagabound
 
Well, the huge benefit of a 10' box is parking and urban maneuverability, which can't really be overrated for some scenarios. And you can get them in hi-cubes, just not common...
 
I was just about to post, I have rented U Hauls of less than 16', and in all of them I had standing room, I think even the 10' had standing room, but that's a while back, my memory of that one is foggy
 
BradKW said:
Well, the huge benefit of a 10' box is parking and urban maneuverability, which can't really be overrated for some scenarios. And you can get them in hi-cubes, just not common...

Didn't know the hi-cube thing. Thanks. But in the end, do you think that a 10' box provides sufficiently more interior space to justify the added trouble of insuring it, etc. compared with just getting a Chevy Express extended van?

P.S. - I seriously want some of that potato salad ... and some key lime pie!


(ArtW)  I was just about to post, I have rented U Hauls of less than 16', and in all of them I had standing room, I think even the 10' had standing room, but that's a while back, my memory of that one is foggy

In order to benefit from that assessment, don't you think your height might be important to know? ;-)

Vagabound
 
Good point, my officious height per Herr Doktor is 5'11.5" in my stocking feet
the benefit of a box truck over a van at 10' long would be width, I would think, as they tend to be wider than a van
Whether that's worth any extra hassle I can't say, I personally would probably pick a 14 footer if I was going box truck
 
I don't have one but the last two I rented, a 10 Ft Chevy and a 15 ft Ford just cruised. They rode and drove better than I was use to and didn't feel near as large as they were. Ground clearance was fine, over head might be iffy especially if you add to it with solar, vents and racks.

I'd want a pass through. I want the ability to drive off if needed. Possibly soften the ride so it doesn't shake everything up so much. Done up right it could look as nice as any RV. Some stuff can go under but only if it can take the exposure. A lift on the back would be wonderful for my back and it would be nice to have some where to sit when it's muddy out.

When it comes to room and power I am a pig. I'd like a comfortable living area as well as a space in the back for the generator, bike and anything else I didn't need in the cabin. The truck and trailer are 40 ft now so I wouldn't go too small.

I'd like a 4x4 but granny gear and a locking rear end would do. I don't use 4x4 to do rock climbing in the sense most think. The rocks are football sized and have to be taken at a snails pace or it'll shake the trailer apart. A true granny gear would give me the same control.

I'll bet you that there are some pretty sweet box trucks out there that you would never know it from the outside.
 
Insurance.  I was looking hard at buying a box truck to convert.  The sticking point for me was I couldn't find a company willing to insure it.

Because there are fifty different states, there are fifty different sets of insurance regulations.

Clearly it's possible to do this in some states because there are people here who have done it.

So the only advice I can offer you is to make sure you have your insurance lined up BEFORE you spend any money on a box truck.

(Btw, school bus conversions have exactly the same problem.)
 
And what about getting the title changed from commercial truck to RV, if one so desires?  

It seems that in Nevada, based on what I've read here, that is quite difficult.  The hardest part had something to do with getting an electrician to certify an electrical work done.  Everything else in NV is easy to include getting married at 2am and buying guns, but you can't easily make your own RV.  Go figure.

What about in AZ?  Any easier to get a DIY box truck conversion re-titled as an RV?

State aside, I'm also wondering if the specialty RV insurers would look upon these box truck-to-RV conversions in a bit more friendly way. If anyone knows, I'd like to hear about it.

Vagabound
 
Regarding height. I'm guessing here because my current box was made by Morgan so different brands may vary some. Mine is 73" inside after adding 2" of rigid foam and 1/4" plywood. So at 6' I'm fine with that.

I've driven the 10, 12 and 14' versions and liked them all.

The 10' works for my use.

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That thing is way to clean looking for stealth... let my crew drive it around for a month or so and we'll have you blending in, no charge...
 
with any box that was meant to carry pallets, the interior will be 8ft wide and 8ft 6inches tall. this handles 2 standard pallets side by side, stacked 2 high. a high cube will be 9ft 6inches high. highdesertranger
 
Hello, what's peoples opinions on something like this http://www.ebay.com/itm/Ford-E-350-...bf740fd2:g:BuUAAOSwFdtXxK4R&item=222255386578

for urban living? I'm hoping to get something I can insulate well and know is secure (ish) while I'm at work.
I'd like it to contain a decent kitchen, solar, a small shower enclosure, a wood stove,storage and a bed. I'm also looking at step vans but they look kinda pricey. Thanks.
Also I'm 6'2 tall.
 
Cypressg said:
Hello, what's peoples opinions on something like this http://www.ebay.com/itm/Ford-E-350-...bf740fd2:g:BuUAAOSwFdtXxK4R&item=222255386578

for urban living? I'm hoping to get something I can insulate well and know is secure (ish) while I'm at work.
I'd like it to contain a decent kitchen, solar, a small shower enclosure, a wood stove,storage and a bed. I'm also looking at step vans but they look kinda pricey. Thanks.
Also I'm 6'2 tall.

Opinions only:
  • Fiberglass box - good - less chance of water leaks
  • Fiberglass box - bad - might be more fragile overall than aluminum (though even aluminum boxes often have fiberglass or some translucent roof / ceiling)
  • Height - I'm 6'2" as well, so I've been paying careful attention to box height on the trucks I'm researching.  So far, generally speaking, I'm finding that the dividing line on standing height for me is between 14' and 16' box length.  First, too short (especially after insulating), but second has plenty of vertical space.
  • While on the subject, similar relationship for horizontal box width, same split (ability to sleep cross-ways vs. must sleep longitudinally).
  • NOTE:  No one needs to tell me there are exceptions -- I know they exist.  Thanks.
Overall, I'd say, pay very careful attention to the box widths, not assuming anything because the same size truck (length) will vary dimensionally by vehicle year sometimes.

Vagabound
 
Cypressg said:
Hello, what's peoples opinions on something like this http://www.ebay.com/itm/Ford-E-350-...bf740fd2:g:BuUAAOSwFdtXxK4R&item=222255386578

for urban living?

Here is the rub for urban living with that truck:

Class: Class 3 (10,001-14,000 lbs.)


That is a 5-7 ton truck. The more weight the higher the regis fees. The more restrictions on where it can be parked and driven.

On street parking rules may limit the vehicle weight for overnight parking.

My E350 Cargo van is 9,500, just under 5 tons.

There was a shopping center that was convenient for coffee and groceries near the horse stables in NJ. It had a sign barring vehicles of 4 tons and up. I never got hassled, but I was shopping and not hiding out.

The flip side of that is the Truck Parking areas in NJ are for trucks of at least 5 tons.

Being that it is not visibly an RV the truck may need to stop at weigh stations. Your build out would need to be within the weight limits for each axle and combined.

Tip: To check vehicle loading use the scales at a truck stop. I have the Cat app. You need to make up a truck number and your company name is PRIVATE, and a trailer number if you have a trailer. Pick some unique numbers. With the app I don't have to go inside at all. I get an email copy of the weight ticket.
 
wayne49 said:
...
Tip: To check vehicle loading use the scales at a truck stop. I have the Cat app. You need to make up a truck number and your company name is PRIVATE, and a trailer number if you have a trailer. Pick some unique numbers. With the app I don't have to go inside at all. I get an email copy of the weight ticket.

All great, practical info.  Thanks a bunch.

1.  Is there some magical weight dividing line, where on the right side of the line, life is easy and cheap and unnoticed, but on the wrong side of it, life is harder and more expensive and more scrutinized?  I mean with trucks, vehicles in general.

2.  Possible to get a fuller name or link for that Cat app?



(Me)  Overall, I'd say, pay very careful attention to the box widths, not assuming anything because the same size truck (length) will vary dimensionally by vehicle year sometimes.

I had a brain-fart while typing and it took me longer than 15 mins. to realize it.  What I meant to say was dimensions, not only width.

Vagabound
 
most of the time the magic weight number is 10,000 lbs. anything over 10k is commercial, unless it's an RV. highdesertranger
 

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