Box Truck Advice

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Aesop

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Hello, today I took a look at a 2010 GMC Cutaway 3500 Dually with a 16 box on it. Basically, a 2010 GMC Savana Box Truck. Former Penske Truck.

It has 190k miles on it. Owner has all service records. Has a re manufactured transmission. Trans was replace at 152k miles. New Serpentine belt and owner said something about new alternator and water pump. The Box Truck has a gasoline generator on the back of it too on the driver's side rear end.

I did upload some pictures to imgur, so y'all could see what it looks like. I did use black ink to black out some personal identiyfing information on the side of the box truck so that the owner does not get calls from across the country!

I was texting with the owner and thru text, I asked them how much they wanted, they said $10k. When I went to look at it today. I asked them if they were flexible on price and then they said they might put it online to see what kind of "bites" they were going to get. Cause the owner claimed that they just said $10k just kinda threw that out there without really researching it. So the owner said they might have to do a little research and see how much the thing is worth.

The other thing i asked the owner at the end, was if they would be okay with a mechanic inspection.  Owner said yeah. However not sure about these last two things. Cause the owner might have thought I was a low baller when I asked about the flexibility on price. The owner seemed kind of (for lack of a better term) pissed, or a little ticked off. Kinda got the same reaction too when I asked if it was okay to take to a mechanical inspection.

That being said, I am 6'4. so i did measure the roof in there and I can stand up fully in it. and yes, the tires have about 25% tread left. so it would need 6 new tires. It does have the penske translucent (fiberglass?) roof. at least the whole thing is white tho, not yellow lol.

I am interested in this thing, but I would want and need to know how to insulate it. Can anybody advise me on what they think of this situation?
 
$10k can be a fair price IF it has a clean carfax (get the Vin# and run it) and you can look at all the service records. I'd take photo's of them with my cell if possible.
A mechanic will tell you how soon you'll need rotors, calipers and pad replaced (plan on it), and also the condition of the transmission. There will be a warranty/guarantee paperwork on this "re-maned" transmission, lapsed but you need that to verify what this guy is telling you. The ol "Trust but Verify" rule on any used vehicle Vs the song an dance from the owner.

Anyone that asks about price before they are reaching for their wallet is just trying to low-ball me. Just a bad practice in my opinion. When you've made you devcision to buy it then make a lower offer below asking price. Be perpared to pay asking or walk away if he won't come down. It's that simple.

Insulation is easy, use XPS 4x8 Foam Board from Ownes Corning. 1 or 2" sheets. Glue 2x2's vertically every 24" around the interior using tube glue that is made or the plastic coated walls. Gotta search for FRP adhesive. Leave the horizonal wood rub-rails that are in the box now for something solid to screw cabinets and cubboards to.
There are several on-line examples of cutaway builds from the insulation out.

just my ol 2¢
 
Price negotiation is tricky.
I'm a demon when it comes to music equipment or audio gear.
But I always screw up car price negotiation. And of course I always find something wrong with a vehicle after I buy it and kick myself for paying too much. That said it's kind of a sellers market for vans right now. Though I wouldn't pay 10k for a box van with that much mileage unless it had some famously bulletproof engine or tranny. And those are mostly in the diesel category.
As far as insulation. Foam board is the way to go.
Most folks put down a layer of reflectix silvered mylar bubble wrap. Then foam board on top. It's been said that for the best R value you want at least some air gap between as well.
As that is about as square as you will ever find on a van chassis your really should go that route.
My friend went with havelock wool insulation for his box. I get the non-chemical, natural angle he was after. But I think he squandered something there. Given how bone simple foam boards are to install. I'm a big fan of 3M Foamular boards. Easy to work worth, decent R value.
There are also Poly ci boards which have a much higher R value but really, really suck if you have to cut them at all. For a box they would be a cinch.
I'd also look into a MAxxair fan up top, and at least one window on the side.
The only issue with those, is what to do with the back roll up. Some folks keep it and build a flush wall. Good for stealth camping.
Some remove it and build the back up with similar material to the sides. Which requires skill.
Even saw one with basically a cottage front door, double hung window and steps on the back.
 
Matlock said:
$10k can be a fair price IF it has a clean carfax (get the Vin# and run it) and you can look at all the service records. I'd take photo's of them with my cell if possible.
A mechanic will tell you how soon you'll need rotors, calipers and pad replaced (plan on it), and also the condition of the transmission. There will be a warranty/guarantee paperwork on this "re-maned" transmission, lapsed but you need that to verify what this guy is telling you. The ol "Trust but Verify" rule on any used vehicle Vs the song an dance from the owner.

Anyone that asks about price before they are reaching for their wallet is just trying to low-ball me. Just a bad practice in my opinion. When you've made you devcision to buy it then make a lower offer below asking price. Be perpared to pay asking or walk away if he won't come down. It's that simple.

Insulation is easy, use XPS 4x8 Foam Board from Ownes Corning. 1 or 2" sheets. Glue 2x2's vertically every 24" around the interior using tube glue that is made or the plastic coated walls. Gotta search for FRP adhesive. Leave the horizonal wood rub-rails that are in the box now for something solid to screw cabinets and cubboards to.
There are several on-line examples of cutaway builds from the insulation out.

just my ol 2¢

@Calaverasgrande  see the updated link. I took screenshots of the carfax and yes it came back clean. I blacked out some of the location information so that nobody tries to buy it out from under me lol.

yes, I am 6'4 so that is why I am interested in this. My main concern is the translucent fiberglass roof. seems kind of thin. but as i understand it one can put aluminum panels over it on top?

I also did not take it for a test drive. seem kind of a beast to take for a test drive. lol.

seems like a lot of work to convert it, no?

yes, when I asked if he was flexible on price, he said "well, that price i gave you thru text, was me just kinda pulling it out of my ass, didn't really research anything beforehand. suppose i should research what it is worth, and put it online, see what kind of bites i get."
then I asked about if it would be ok to take to a prebuyer inspection and he said yes. but as always one has to read between the lines when going thru things like this.

see updated link. I added a couple pics of the carfax.
 
A couple things; First you need to drive one. A used 16' box truck will drive like a 50 year old dump truck. Loud, rough riding and they brake and steer like what it is, a very used big truck. Not something I'd be willing to drive more than 50 miles in before taking a break. Why? Because everything is worn out.
Even if you load it down with a couple thousand pounds of stuff it will still be unpleasant to drive. Ever rent a new Uhaul 16' box van? They are rattletraps from the get-go. See if you can find a 10 or 12 footer that's for sale, regardless of the height and just drive one to get the feel of it. Then drive a 16' version. Big difference between them, mostly suspension and steering and braking components.
There are 12 and 14 foot 1 ton (3500 series) trucks out there with a tall ceiling. Those drive like a pick-up truck. Much more comfortable. Don't take my word for it, find one and drive it, drive several.
Yes, aluminum sheets can be installed over top of the plastic roof panels. In another thread on the same topic a member said there is a place in Texas that will install the aluminum roof for $2600. Any sheel metal shop can point you to someone that can do that work.
To your last statement; Yes indeed doing a box truck conversion can be a lot of work and be costly. All that is relative to whats in your wallet and what you require. Ball park would be between $2k and $3k for a basic conversion. If you want bigger solar panels or better storage batteries and a stand alone generator the price goes up. That of course is in addition to you making sure all the truck mechanicals are updated.
Can it be done for less, sure, just throw a sleeping bag and a case of water and a bucket in the back and your done.
Its all in what you want Vs what you want to spend. Find a couple on Craigslist and take them for a drive. That will answer many of your questions.
 
thanks for your response. and the other guy too.
 
IMG_20211025_125305.jpgI've got a12 foot box van its a Chevy with the 4.8 .
It's gets14 on the highway. I took out the roll up door and tracks built a wall and put in a RV door with screen. It has a pass through from the cab. It drives like a van.
 

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How tall are you? I am 6'4, so needless to say my options are limited. is yours a 3/4 ton or 1 ton? What year?
 
samguy2000 said:
Can anybody advise me on what they think of this situation?

When I was shopping for a box truck I noticed that the U-Hauls are sold as non-running mechanic's specials at around 130K miles for a bad engine or transmission.  I bought one for $4,500 and am still working on a mechanical restoration.  The Penske's are said to be better trucks, rented by professionals, for longer trips, etc.  But I would figure the engine in this truck is not long for this world, so would factor in the price of a new engine.  I learned from this place:  https://www.truckntrailer.net/collision-repair/4042364 that it costs about $2600 to replace the fiberglass membrane roof with aluminum.  This guy does it all the time.  
 
tx2sturgis,
.
On an earlier build, we acquired complete door units from local-owned family-operated Discount Windows in Junction City, Oregon.
Junction City, home to dozens of RecreateVehicle dealers and hundreds of RecreateVehicles.
www.oregondiscountwindows.com
.
I seem to recall they -- all-aluminum, ready-to-use, frames with screen door and exterior door, complete -- ran about us$30 each.
.
.
Also in Oregon, this Eugene local-owned family-operated barn-n-yard carries many thousands of new and take-out parts for RecreateVehicles.
They have so much stuff buried under stuff and behind stuff, they may say they don't have your stuff, but my foraging indicates otherwise.
www.nwrvsupply.com
.
Example:
* scrounging through pallets of rain-soaked boxes of fresh arrivals from who-knows-where, we snagged two hundred-buck MaxxAir fans for five clams... for the pair.
We wall-mounted them on a food-truck build.
Last I heard, they were going strong.
.
Their electric and electronic section tends to run about eight feet deep.
The word 'teetering' barely begins to describe it.
.
Their snazzy website fails to convey the absolute delight of walking from the dusty 'showroom' into the splendor of the back-end.
Bring a lunch...
 
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Scottrod, where did you obtain (or order) the left-swing RV door...
.
a)
www.oregondiscountwindows.com
Junction City, Oregon.
.
Foraging through their meadow of windows, we came across an unmarked section of doors for RecreateVehicles.
We snagged one for a conversion... us$35 (thirty-five fedbux).
.
b)
www.nwrvsupply.com
Eugene, Oregon.
.
Between their field and warehouse, they have pretty much anything RecreateVehicle.
 
I understand you're not buying it from Penske but I bought 2 24' GMC 6000 (just under CDL 26,000 GVW} trucks with 360 CI Big Block gas engines with auto trans which were the same specs as our other non CDL trucks. They were like new & I got both for less than 1 new one. They had about 50k miles & under $10k ea but it was over 15 years ago.
I agree on dickering only do it if you want to buy it, do it cash in hand & don't ask a yes/no question. I'd say I have $8000 cash & you won't have to deal with dozens of tire kickers. I never run down someones stuff. Good Luck!
 

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