Continuing from VAN thread "deep cell battery cut-off switch"
I took the van to Certified Auto Electric in Tucson.
This is the statement list of what he did, and he took before and after photos:
March 7, 2017
large voltage drop from alternator to main and aux batteries
traced drop to the added isolation system
the wiring is insufficient to carry the current
Repair wire harness
remove added battery isolation system, replace fusible link, install new isolation system with 4 gauge battery cables
rest found no voltage drop to battery systems
After establishing that there is a problem in one of the wire
harnesses, open up the harness and repair the immediate problem.
Install battery charger cables for both batteries
Install extra battery cable per customer request
Added cable from aux battery to under driver's seat.
When I left Thurs eve, the volt meter read a hair over 14. Drove the 10 miles home and didn't drive again until Saturday. No change when turning on the AC or lights.
Saturday, Mar 11, about noon, I drove ~4 miles, stopped at a light. Car shuddered, power dropped, and I noticed both check engine soon light and use unleaded fuel only lights were on. This is the same type of gas I've used since getting it in 1998. I had to drive another mile before I could turn home. I turned into a parking lot and similar behaviors occurred.
Monday AM took it to my regular mechanic. It turned out the water pump failed. Now I have a new pump AND belt tensioner. And NOW, the volt meter is reading a bit UNDER 14 volts. Now when turning on the AC, the reading changes a tiny bit, with the lights, there is more drop, and is more noticeable.
Before I left the mechanic, --the same ones who weren't concerned about my low voltage readings for years--checked it, and said it's in range, there is nothing they did to cause a drop, except the new belt tensioner may cause that difference. He--the manager--is NOT concerned about it.
Do I need to--should I-- take this back to the electric shop for an adjustment? [/color]
Thanks for your guidance.
I took the van to Certified Auto Electric in Tucson.
This is the statement list of what he did, and he took before and after photos:
March 7, 2017
large voltage drop from alternator to main and aux batteries
traced drop to the added isolation system
the wiring is insufficient to carry the current
Repair wire harness
remove added battery isolation system, replace fusible link, install new isolation system with 4 gauge battery cables
rest found no voltage drop to battery systems
After establishing that there is a problem in one of the wire
harnesses, open up the harness and repair the immediate problem.
Install battery charger cables for both batteries
Install extra battery cable per customer request
Added cable from aux battery to under driver's seat.
When I left Thurs eve, the volt meter read a hair over 14. Drove the 10 miles home and didn't drive again until Saturday. No change when turning on the AC or lights.
Saturday, Mar 11, about noon, I drove ~4 miles, stopped at a light. Car shuddered, power dropped, and I noticed both check engine soon light and use unleaded fuel only lights were on. This is the same type of gas I've used since getting it in 1998. I had to drive another mile before I could turn home. I turned into a parking lot and similar behaviors occurred.
Monday AM took it to my regular mechanic. It turned out the water pump failed. Now I have a new pump AND belt tensioner. And NOW, the volt meter is reading a bit UNDER 14 volts. Now when turning on the AC, the reading changes a tiny bit, with the lights, there is more drop, and is more noticeable.
Before I left the mechanic, --the same ones who weren't concerned about my low voltage readings for years--checked it, and said it's in range, there is nothing they did to cause a drop, except the new belt tensioner may cause that difference. He--the manager--is NOT concerned about it.
Do I need to--should I-- take this back to the electric shop for an adjustment? [/color]
Thanks for your guidance.