Search results

Thanks everyone. Could not have done it without this forum's help.

Made the suggested changes [added ground bus bar and separated grounds & neutrals. Ground wire from shore inlet to new panel ground bar. Panel ground bar grounded to chassi.] No longer tripping GFIs. Does this look correct??

Thanks. That's what I thought. Maybe they are referring to the pre-drilled holes lining up. I'll have to drill my own, as this box has no pre-drilled ones. I know it would be best to hire an electrician, but around here, even IF one returns my call, they want nothing to do with DIY van...

Does the bus bar have to be from the same maker as the panel? My box is Siemens and I got a 7 slot Square D. All the Siemens bus bars I found were 12+ slots (too big for my small box). Claims on YouTube said they should be from the same manufacturer but don't say why.

Thanks all. I'll get started later this week. I'd would have given it to an electrician, but none around here return your calls. None interested in working on a van. One last thing. Does the main breaker box stay grounded to the chassis?

So I need a larger breaker box that has separate bus bars for white & green. Then would I still need to run a wire from box to inlet (and reconnect the inlet ground)?

Are you saying I need a wire from the breaker box to the inlet? Photo of box (breakers removed for view)

Let me clarify: Both the breaker box and the inlet were grounded to the chassis (not at the same spot). GFIs tripped. I removed the ground just from the inlet. No tripping (breaker box still grounded). I will check on the neutral-ground bonding.

I've been using the 30/15 adapter, but sometimes a 30 amp outlet is not an option (such as at a friend's place). I'll have to check on the neutral and ground bonding.

Just the chassis.

For the last 2 years whenever I plug into a campground 15 amp GFI the breaker would trip, so I always used a 30/15 adapter which worked fine for me. Using one of those 3-light circuit tester it read all good. At home I tried it by plugging into a NON-GFI outlet and used the circuit tester --...

I have in my van conversion a "toe kick" electric heater (450 watt) for times I'm plugged into shore power on cold nights. My current thermostat (just a simple dial type) is terribly inaccurate (off by about 10 degrees). Also, the dial is supposed to go down to 40 degrees, but since it is off by...

That's interesting. I'll have to take some measurement tomorrow. I doubt I have a space for something that large.

:thumbsup:  Sound good!

Nice, but wow $36. I'd like to stay <$20.

Any recommendations on a strong magnetic knife bar (under $20)? I just sent one back to Amazon because it was way too weak. I could tell, first pothole and everything would be on the floor. Thanks.

:thumbsup:  I'll be replacing it with the inline fuse jimindenver linked.

Thanks, order placed. :thumbsup:

Did you mean to put a link to "this"?

So you would suggest removing the inverter wires from that middle 100amp breaker (referring to photo above) and connecting the 2 wires with perhaps this (link) Inline fuse? {I use the oven for baking small items such as chicken nuggets, biscuits and cinn rolls, etc.}