Warning re Advent ACM135

Howdy, I just wanted to give folks a heads up on the experience I've had with this rooftop air conditioning unit. I'm the 3rd owner of my RV. I paid for an inspection before buying it in June of 2019, but the Dometic AC failed in Sept 2020. A fantastic mobile RV mech installed an Advent in there. (Fantastic mech in many ways, but apparently made a bad choice of product to install.) The Advent failed in March of 2021. I jumped through the hoops to get it replaced under warranty, but that only took care of the cost of the unit. I had to pay trip fee and labor to get it actually replaced. The replacement unit just failed in early April (mech says it's the compressor). I will have to pay trip fees and now pay for everything to get it replaced by another manufacturer's unit.

I just wanted to give folks a heads up on this brand/model. It has been an expensive disappointing dud.

Roof top A/C units are typically robust. What does them in is a low line voltage. You might consider a Hughes Autoformer that will boost a low line voltage to a nominal level. You should also be using a Progressive Industries EMS or similar product to test and monitor input power to the RV.

Yep, low voltage (voltage sag) can be a killer for a roof A/C compressor and it's usually the shore power supply, the on-board genset, or, substandard wiring in the RV that supplies the unit.

Just one of many articles that address this problem:

https://rvlife.com/low-voltage-in-your-rv/
Three failed units in a row seems to me, that there may be some other issue.

If this were happening to me, the first thing I do is monitor the 120v supply inside the RV, using one of these or similar:

https://www.amazon.com/Hughes-Autof...dp/B0195J4T2Q/ref=psdc_14244481_t3_B015H0A3FO
https://www.amazon.com/Prime-Produc...dp/B075CSGT56/ref=psdc_14244481_t2_B0195J4T2Q
You should watch the fluctuation of the reading when the A/C compressor starts up, and the old-school analog style makes it easy to see the voltage drop during compressor start. Voltage will drop noticeably during compressor start, but it should stay above 100 volts at a minimum, and while the compressor is running (steady state) the voltage should hold at around 120 volts.

Yep roof top air ain’t cheap and loosing one to a “brown out” low voltage condition is common. Many shore power outlets are not really wired as they should be and generators in remote areas aren’t always maintained for peak performance.

Brown out conditions are much worse for electronics and electric devices than blackouts by a large margin. The strain to keep working leads to dirty power, which is brutal on many levels and will absolutely kill electronics.